Buick 14066918 Wheel Bearing

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If the bearings are too loose, clean and inspect them before repacking and adjusting.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised, typically coinciding with brake pad replacement. While the vehicle is securely supported on jackstands, assess each wheel by spinning it and examining for noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay. To check for excessive play, grasp the top and bottom of each tire and move the wheel in and out on the spindle; any noticeable movement indicates the need for bearing inspection, repacking with grease, or replacement. After removing the wheel, displace the brake caliper and hang it out of the way, possibly using a wood block between the brake pads for separation. Proceed to pry out the dust cap, straighten and remove the cotter pin, and then eliminate the nut lock, nut, and washer from the spindle. Slightly pull the hub/disc assembly out and push it back to facilitate the removal of the outer bearing. Subsequently, detach the hub/disc assembly from the spindle and use a screwdriver to pry out the seal from the rear of the hub, taking note of its installation. Proceed to remove the inner wheel bearing, clean all components thoroughly with solvent, and meticulously inspect the bearings and races for damage. Replace any defective bearing races at a machine shop if necessary, ensuring that old bearings are not installed on new races. Subsequently, use high-temperature front wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings and apply a thin coat of grease to designated spindle areas. Add grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam with your finger to contain excess grease. Install the grease-packed inner bearing, a new seal, and the outer bearing. Place the washer and spindle nut, tighten it gently, spin the hub while tightening to approximately 20 ft-lbs, then loosen it 1/4-turn, and finally secure it snugly by hand with a new cotter pin and nut lock. Install the dust cap, replace the brake caliper, reattach the wheel, and check the bearings' condition by grasping the top and bottom of the tire. Finally, lower the vehicle.

The bearing recess should be cleaned out.

Ensure the new bearing is lubricated with gear lubricant and tapped into the full depth of its recess, with the bearing numbers visible from the outer end of the casing.

The bearing puller can be found at tool stores and auto parts stores.

Install the grease-packed inner bearing, a new seal, and the outer bearing. Place the washer and spindle nut, tighten it gently, spin the hub while tightening to approximately 20 ft-lbs, then loosen it 1/4-turn, and finally secure it snugly by hand with a new cotter pin and nut lock.

After reinstalling the front wheel bearings, install the dust cap, replace the brake caliper, reattach the wheel, and check the bearings' condition by grasping the top and bottom of the tire.

The bearing puller can be found at tool stores and auto parts stores.

The new bearing should be tapped in to the full depth of its recess.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, or free play. Now grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005in, the bearings should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hubcap and wheel. Using an Allen wrench of the proper size, remove the two bolts which secure the disc brake caliper to its support. Fabricate a wood block which will be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Carefully slide the caliper off the disc and insert the wood block between the pads. Use wire to hang the caliper assembly out of the way. Be careful not to kink or damage the brake hose. Pry the hub grease cap off the hub using a screwdriver. Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin and then pull the cotter pin out of the locking nut. Discard the cotter pin, as a new one should be used on reassembly. Remove the spindle nut and its washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub assembly outward slightly and then push it back into its original position. This should force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so that it can be removed with your fingers. Remove the outer bearing, noting how it is installed on the end of the spindle. Now the hub assembly can be pulled off the spindle. On the rear side of the hub, use a screwdriver to pry out the inner bearing lip seal. As this is done, note the direction in which the seal is installed. The inner bearing can now be removed from the hub, again noting how it is installed. Use clean parts solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle. A small brush may prove useful; however, make sure no bristles from the brush embed themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow the parts to air dry. Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, bent rollers, etc. Check the bearing races inside the hub for cracks, scoring, or uneven surfaces.

To remove the front wheel bearings, pry out the dust cap, straighten and remove the cotter pin, and then eliminate the nut lock, nut, and washer from the spindle.

The new bearing can be installed using a bearing installer or a piece of pipe against the outer bearing race.

To check the front wheel bearings, you can spin the wheel while the model is on jackstands and assess noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay. You can also grab the tire's top and bottom and check if it moves more than 0.005 inches.