Buick 12592195 Seal Assembly, Crankshaft Rear Oil

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To remove and install the lower half of the rear Crankshaft Seal on Buick 231, 252, and 350, as well as Oldsmobile 307 engines, start by removing the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. Remove the old oil seal from the bearing cap and apply a sealer to the seal groove. Quickly roll a new seal into the groove with both ends projecting above the cap's parting surface, using a suitable tool. Apply a thin film of chassis grease to the rope seal's working surface, then force it into the groove with a smooth tool or a hammer handle until it projects no more than 1/8 inch (1.5mm) above the groove. Rotate the tool slightly and cut the seal ends flush with the cap's surface using a razor blade. For Buick 231, 252, and 350 engines, soak new neoprene side seals in kerosene for five minutes and place them in the grooves on the bearing cap. Ensure they are not cut to fit. Apply a sealer to the surface of the bearing cap that mates with the block around the seal groove. Reverse the removal steps to install the cap and oil pan. Operate the engine at low rpm when first started after a new seal is installed. For the upper half of the oil seal replacement on Buick engines, though it's recommended to remove the crankshaft, you can replace it without removing the crankshaft. Loosen the other crankshaft main bearings to allow the crankshaft to drop about 1/8 inch (0.062mm). Remove the old upper half of the seal and lubricate the new seal with oil (for 1975-84 vehicles) or chassis grease (for 1985-87 vehicles). Use a soft copper wire to pull the new seal into place around the crankshaft, ensuring it protrudes equally on each side. Remove excess seal if necessary. Check the bearings, torque the bearing cap bolts to specifications, replace the oil pan, and run the engine slowly during the first few minutes of operation to break in the new seal. For 305 and 350 Chevrolet engines, remove the oil pan, pump, and rear main bearing cap. Pry out the lower seal and lightly tap the upper seal out. Clean all mating surfaces and install the new seals by lubricating the seal lips and beads, making sure the lips face the front of the engine. Use an installation tool to protect the seal as you work it around the crankshaft. Ensure there is no oil on mating surfaces, then replace the oil pan, pump, and run the engine to break in the new seals. In the case of 265 and 301 Pontiac engines, remove the oil pan and baffle, the rear main bearing cap, and form a new seal in the cap. Drive the upper seal into the groove on each side until it's tightly packed. Then, cut pieces from the new seal and insert them into the gaps at the end of the seal in the block. No material should be cut off. Apply a 1/16-inch bead of silicone sealer from the center of the seal across to the external gasket groove. Reassemble the cap, tighten the bolts to specification, and reinstall the oil pan. Finally, run the engine slowly for the first few minutes to break in the new seal. For 263, 350, and 403 Oldsmobile engines, you can replace the upper oil seal without removing the crankshaft. Drain the crankcase and remove the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. Drive the upper seal into the groove on each side until it's packed. Cut the pieces of the new seal slightly longer than needed to fill the grooves and install them, packing them into place. Place shim stock between the seal and crankshaft to prevent damage, then trim any protruding seal without scratching the bearing surface. Install a new seal in the bearing cap, reinstall the cap, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque. Finally, reinstall the oil pan.

Ensure that the seal enters the bore squarely and stop when the front face is at the appropriate depth.

First, remove the oil pan. Then, remove the bolts and detach the seal housing. Drive the old seal out from the back side with a punch and hammer.

The new seal should be pressed into place with a special tool, if available. If not available, it should be carefully worked over the end of the crankshaft and tapped in with a hammer and blunt punch until seated in the bore.

Apply a thin coat of ATV-type sealant to the outer edge of the new seal.

Remove the flywheel/driveplate. Carefully remove the Crankshaft Seal from the engine block using a thin screwdriver or seal removal tool. Be very careful not to damage the crankshaft surface while prying the seal out. Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft. Check the seal contact surface on the crankshaft for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different crankshaft. Inspect the seal bore for nicks and scratches. Carefully smooth it with a fine file if necessary, but don't nick the crankshaft in the process. It is recommended to use a special tool to install the new Crankshaft Seal. Lubricate the Crankshaft Seal lips. Slide the seal onto the mandril until the dust lip bottoms squarely against the collar of the tool. If the special tool isn't available, carefully work the seal lip over the crankshaft and tap it into place with a hammer and punch. Align the dowel pin on the tool with the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft and attach the tool to the crankshaft by hand-tightening the bolts. Turn the tool handle until the collar bottoms against the case, seating the seal. Loosen the tool handle and remove the bolts. Remove the tool. Check the seal and make sure it's seated squarely in the bore. Install the flywheel/driveplate. Install the transaxle.

Check for oil leaks at the seal.

The rear crankshaft seal can be replaced without removing the oil pan or crankshaft. First, remove the transmission. If equipped with a manual transmission, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Next, remove the flywheel or driveplate. Using a seal removal tool or a large screwdriver, carefully pry the seal out of the block. Be careful not to scratch or nick the crankshaft in the process. Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft. Check the crankshaft surface for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different crankshaft. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the seal lip and outer edge of the new seal. Press the new seal into place with GM tool no. J34924(if available). The seal lip must face toward the front of the engine. If the special tool isn't available, carefully work the seal lip over the end of the crankshaft and tap the seal in with a hammer and blunt drift until it's seated squarely in the bore. Install the flywheel or driveplate. If equipped with a manual transmission, reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate. Finally, reinstall the transmission.

The upper and lower fan shrouds, the cooling fan, and the drive belt.

You should drive the new seal into place with a large socket and a hammer, ensuring it enters the bore squarely and is driven in until the front face is flush with the cover.

You should drive the new seal into place with a large socket and a hammer, ensuring it enters the bore squarely and is driven in until the front face is flush with the cover.

Support the cover on blocks of wood and position the new seal in the bore with the open end of the seal facing IN.

If the vehicle has a manual transmission, you should also reinstall the clutch disc and pressure plate.