Genuine Chevrolet Tahoe Shock Absorber

Chevrolet Tahoe Shock Absorber Parts Questions & Answers

• Rear Shock Absorber Assembly
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  Q: How do you remove a rear shock absorber from Chevrolet Avalanche,Silverado,Suburban,Tahoe,GMC Sierra,Yukon,Yukon Denali and Yukon XL?

  A: To remove the shock absorber, raise the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Disconnect the electrical connector and the airline from the shock absorber. Support the rear axle with a floor jack. Remove the shock absorber fasteners and then remove it. Installation is the reverse of removal.
• Front Shock Absorber Assembly
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  Q: How to remove and install a front coil-over or torsion bar shock absorber module?

  A: To remove the model of a coil-over shock absorber, start by loosening the front wheel nuts which hold together its lug, lift up the automobile and remove it tire. Use a floor jack to support the external end of lower Control Arm and detach the tie-rod end from Steering Knuckle. Remove top mounting nuts and two bolts that attach bottom of shock absorber to lower control arm. Pull it out from below. To install, reverse removal steps for installing new shocks and tighten fasteners as per their torque specifications. If equipped with a suspension control system, reconnect electrical plug at top of shock absorber. For torsion bar models, follow same steps but back up wrench on stem is used for removing upper mount nut as well as related hardware. Observe direction in which bolt points while removing the lower mounting nut and bolt. Reverse removal steps when installing making sure that lower mounting bolt is pointing exactly in the same spot it did before.
• Front Shock Absorber Assembly
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  Q: How to inspect and maintain the CV Boot and Shock Absorber of a Chevrolet Avalanche,Silverado,Suburban,Tahoe,GMC Sierra,Yukon,Yukon Denali and Yukon XL?

  A: Park the vehicle on level ground, turn the engine off and set the parking brake. Check the tire pressures. Push down at one corner of the vehicle, then release it while noting the movement of the body. It should stop moving and come to rest in a level position within one or two bounces. If the vehicle continues to move up and down or if it fails to return to its original position, a worn or weak shock absorber is probably the reason. Repeat the above check at each of the three remaining corners of the vehicle. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands. Check the shock absorbers for evidence of fluid leakage. A light film of fluid is no cause for concern. Make sure that any fluid noted is from the shocks and not from some other source. If leakage is noted, replace the shocks as a set. Check the shocks to be sure that they are securely mounted and undamaged. Check the upper mounts for damage and wear. If damage or wear is noted, replace the shocks as a set (front or rear). Visually inspect the steering and suspension components (front and rear) for damage and distortion. Look for damaged seals, boots and bushings, and leaks of any kind. Examine the bushings where the control arms meet the chassis. Clean the lower end of the steering knuckle. Have an assistant grasp the lower edge of the tire and move the wheel in and out while you look for movement at the steering knuckle-to-control arm balljoint. If there is any movement the suspension balljoint(s) must be replaced. Grasp each front tire at the front and rear edges, push in at the front, pull out at the rear, and feel for play in the steering system components. If any free play is noted, check the idler arm and the tie-rod ends for looseness. The CV Boot is very important because it prevents dirt, water and foreign material from entering and damaging the constant velocity (CV) joints. Oil and grease can cause the boot material to deteriorate prematurely, so it's a good idea to wash the boots with soap and water because it constantly pivots back and forth following the steering action of the front hub, the outer CV Boot wears out sooner and should be inspected regularly. Inspect the boots for tears and cracks as well as loose clamps. If there is any evidence of cracks or leaking lubricant, they must be replaced.