Cadillac 11588728 Bolt, Heavy Hx Acorn Flange Head

Remove the spark plugs and the valve covers, camshafts and rocker arms. Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Apply compressed air to the cylinder. The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. Using a socket and a hammer, gently tap on the top of each valve spring retainer several times, then use a valve-spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. Remove the valve spring and retainer. Remove the old Valve Stem Oil Seals, noting differences between the intake and exhaust seals. Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement. Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it does not bind. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If you're working on an exhaust valve, fit the new exhaust Valve Stem Oil Seal on the valve stem and press it down over the valve guide. If you're working on an intake valve, install a new intake Valve Stem Oil Seal over the valve stem and press it down over the valve guide. Install the spring and retainer in position over the valve. Compress the valve spring assembly only enough to install the keepers in the valve stem. Position the keepers in the valve stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary. Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated. Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Repeat the above procedure on the remaining cylinders. Install the rocker arm assemblies, camshafts, timing chains and the valve covers. Start the engine, then check for oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area. Allow the engine to idle for at least five minutes before revving the engine.

Valve springs get fractured and valve stem seals get damaged, these can be replaced without even having to remove the cylinder head, and this exercise normally takes about two special tools and a compressed air set. Start by loosening and pry off the spark plugs and the valve covers; thereafter turn over the crankshaft to ensure that the number one piston is at the TDC on the compression stroke. Take off the rocker arms for number 1 piston, screw an adapter in the spark plug hole and connect an air hose of compressed air supply. Coast up to 45 minutes and apply compressed air into the cylinder with the valves closed, which hold the valves in place due to the pressure, then stuff shop rags into the cylinder heads hole around the valves to avoid dropping some parts or tools into the engines. Tap on the top of each of the valve spring retainer with a gentle force to crack the seal, you can then use the valve spring compressor to compress the spring and take out the keepers using needle nosen pliers or magnet. Take off the valve spring and retainer; if air pressure does not hold the valve closed, the machine should be turned over and the valve face or seat probably scarped to require the head to be removed. Take off the old valve stem seals, place a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem to ensure the valve stem does not drop into the cylinder and examine on the valve stem for further wear. Subject the valve to air pressure to keep it closed, the replacements to be made are the valve stem seals and these should be followed by the spring and the retainer. Preload the valve spring assembly in a manner to contain the keepers and if needed a small amount of grease could be applied to lock the keepers in place. Relieve the air pressure and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole After doing the same thing on the other cylinders, ensure that each piston is on the top dead centre on the compression stroke before applying air pressure. Last but not the least, fit the rocker arm assemblies and the top covers then crank the engine, inspect for oil leaks and strange noises and let it run for five minutes, at least, before putting it to a test ride.

Both the valve springs and the valve stem seals can be removed and replaced without removal of the cylinder head, with only two special tools and compressed air. First, the spark plugs and the valve covers should be pulled off, then turn the crankshaft until the piston #1 has a TDC on the compression stroke. Take out the rocker arms for the number one piston, screw an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose. Forcing air onto the cylinders, make sure the valves are closed by the pressure of the air; stuff the cylinder head holes round the valves with shop rags so as the parts cannot fall into the engine. There is no need to remove the valves with their springs yet-just softly hit on the tops of each valve spring retainer to free the valve-keeper settling on the spring retainer top; then with such a tool as valve-spring compressor, you need to compress the spring and take the keepers out with tiny needle-nose pliers or a magnet, if available. If air pressure is unable to hold the valve in the closed position the face or seat can become damaged and for rectification the cylinder head may have to be removed. Take off the old valve stem seals with their variation in the intake and exhaust seal in mind; place a rubber band or tape around the top of the stem so that it won't drop into the combustion chamber when loosening the air pressure is released. Check damage on the valve stem part if the stem bounds in the guide the head will have to be unbolted for repair. Apply pressure on the air to retain the valve closed, thereafter; fit a new valve stem seal over the valve stem and compress it over the valve guide to the recommended torque. Place the spring and retainer where they belong over the valve; tighten the assembly a little in order to place the keepers in it; use a small amount of grease if the keepers are difficult to seat. Take off the pressure from the spring tool; keepers should now be back in their place, following which you can detach the air hose, and take the adapter off the spark plug hole. Perform the same for the other cylinders, and do it according to the firing order sequence, and replace the rocker arm assembling and the valve cover. Last, switch on the engine without touching the brake pedal and inspect the crankcase for dripping oil and excessive noise in the region of the valve cover, let the engine run for no less than five minutes and rev it.

Valve springs break and valve stem seals can be changed without removing a cylinder head, generally, two special tools and compressed air. First, the spark plugs and valve covers shall be unplugged and by turning the crankshaft of the vehicle, the piston number one should be on the compression stroke TDC. Take out the rocker arms for the number one cylinder, insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air line from compressed air. Using compressed air jam the valves on the cylinder and for the cylinder head hole stuff the shop rags so as to avoid oil and other parts or tools to fall on the engine. Lightly hammer on the heads of the valve springs with a soft-faced hammer to free the valve keeper from its seat on the spring retainer with a magnet or with small needle-nose pliers using a valve-spring compressor. Lift off the valve spring and the retainer and if air pressure cannot keep the valve closed the valve face or seat may be bent and will require the cylinder head to be pulled for repairs. Take out the previous valve stem seals with the typical variation between the intake and the exhaust seals and circle the head of the valve stem with a rubber band or some piece of thin tape so as the top of the valve stem won't fall off into the combustion chamber before one can release the air pressure. Check the valve stem for signs of wear particularly the smooth running of the stem in the guide; if this fails the head will have to be unbolted for further repair. Pump in a little air pressure to lock the valve in its closed position; then, place the new valve stem seals over the ends of the intake and exhaust valve guides. Place the keepers alongside the retainer and over the valve, compress the valve spring assembly enough through to seat the keepers and use a drop of grease just to ensure that they are well in place. Retract the keepers and take off the pressure from the spring tool, thereafter, take off the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Perform the same on the other cylinders, with each piston at TDC on the compression stroke when air pressure is applied and the rocker arm assemblies and valve covers fitted back.

To start with, rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Put an adaptor into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Then you apply compressed air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place. Prevent any parts or tools from falling into the engine by stuffing shop rags into the cylinder head holes around the valves. Tap gently on top of each valve spring retainer with a socket and hammer in order to break the seal between the valve keeper and the spring retainer. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers or a magnet to remove keepers compressed spring using valve-spring compressor. Remove both spring and retainer then replace old valve stem seals. Check whether there is any damage on the valve stem or eccentric movement or binding. If necessary, remove head for repair. Press new stem seals over valve guide until they are at specified depth. Install keepers in valve stem grooves by compressing spring and placing retainers then drop them in said sequence if need be use grease literally just to stick them down tiny bit of grease will do it this time if needed at all . Follow this process for other cylinders in line with their firing order sequence as shown below: Finally, reinstall rocker arm assemblies and valve covers; start engine, check for oil leaks or any other unusual sounds that may be heard from it. Leave engine idling for at least five minutes before revving it.

Replacing of broken valve springs and leaking valve stem seals does not need the removal of the cylinder head normally when it necessitates only two particular tools and a supply of compressed air. Start with the spark plugs then follow the upper intake manifold, then the valve covers, the camshafts and lastly the rocker arms. Put a spark plug through the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to a receptacle of compressed air; it is possible to obtain a suitable air hose socket in any auto spare parts shop. Spray compressed air on the cylinder which should intact the valves. Strike lightly on top of each of the valve spring retainer with a rubber mallet to free the valve keeper from its seat on the retainer, then use a valve spring compressor to compress the spring; then pull the retainers from the keepers with needle nose pliers or a magnet. There are specific techniques for compressing valve springs with the head still on, though it may be rarely done, and such tools may grasp the lower coils of the spring or use the rocker arm bolt for the purpose. That is so because once the valve spring and retainer have been unscrewed, there is always high air pressure that holds the valve closed to prevent damage. Pop out the old valve stem seal as intake and exhaust are dissimilar and place a rubber band or some tape on the top of that valve stem to avoid it from dropping into the combustion chamber before that air pressure is released. Check the undersides of the valve stem for damage, especially in the region of the guide; if there is a tendency for the stem to bind, the head will have to be lifted and repaired. Breathe on the valve to keep it closed, replace intake and exhaust valve stem seals while still using the hammer not to force it against the top of the guide. Place it over the valve, compress only enough to place the keepers in and then with a little grease apply it to the keepers to secure it for usage. Once you are sure that the keepers are comfortably seated, pull the air hose and pull out the adapter out of the spark plug hole and do the same for the other cylinders. At last replace the rocker arm assemblies, camshafts, timing chains, valve covers and start the engine and perform tests about the oil leaking and unusual sound of an engine for a minimum of five minutes of idle time and for minimum rev.

Remove the spark plugs and the valve covers, camshafts and rocker arms. Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Apply compressed air to the cylinder. The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. Using a socket and a hammer, gently tap on the top of each valve spring retainer several times, then use a valve-spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. Remove the valve spring and retainer. Remove the old Valve Stem Oil Seals, noting differences between the intake and exhaust seals. Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement. Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it does not bind. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If you're working on an exhaust valve, fit the new exhaust Valve Stem Oil Seal on the valve stem and press it down over the valve guide. If you're working on an intake valve, install a new intake Valve Stem Oil Seal over the valve stem and press it down over the valve guide. Install the spring and retainer in position over the valve. Compress the valve spring assembly only enough to install the keepers in the valve stem. Position the keepers in the valve stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary. Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated. Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Repeat the above procedure on the remaining cylinders. Install the rocker arm assemblies, camshafts, timing chains and the valve covers. Start the engine, then check for oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area. Allow the engine to idle for at least five minutes before revving the engine.

Exhaust and intake valve springs for a doubled valve train can be replaced without having to remove the cylinder head of the car, which will take approximately two special tools and a source of compressed air. First, the spark plugs, the valve covers, the cams and the rockers must be taken out. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to this end and the other end must be connected to a compressed air supply. Use compressed air on the cylinder to fix the valves in position against the effects of the liquid. Lightly strike the top of each valve spring retainer to free the valve keeper from the spring retainer Employing a valve-spring compressor, compress the valve spring and extract the keepers by means of needle-nose pliers or magnet. Take off the valve spring and the retainer with utmost care to avoid the pressure of lifting the valve, while the air pressure is still retaining it in the closed position. Take out the previous valve stem seals; it is possible to tell an intake seal from an exhaust seal by how they are designed, and round the upper part of the valve stem with a rubber band or tape to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber once again, before relieving the air pressure . It is also advisable to examine the valve stem to see if it is damaged and in the process check if the stem binds in the guide. Vibration pressure is then applied to lock the valve back in place and a new valve stem seal is fitted for the intake as well as the exhaust valves without requiring the valve to be pressed up against the top guide. Place the spring and retainer over the valve pushing the assembly just enough to fit the keepers to it, If needed use a little grease to hold the keepers in place. Take the pressure off the spring tool and make sure that the keepers are in place, then detach the air hose and take of the adapter off the spark plug hole. Perform the same for the rest cylinders, and finally fit the rocker arm assemblies, the cam shafts, the timing chains, and the valve covers. Turn on the engine to look for such signs as oil dripping and strange noises, let the car run for at least five minutes then rev it up.

Remove the spark plugs and the valve covers, camshafts and rocker arms. Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Most auto parts stores can supply the air hose adapter. Apply compressed air to the cylinder. The valves should be held in place by the air pressure. Using a socket and a hammer, gently tap on the top of each valve spring retainer several times, then use a valve-spring compressor to compress the spring. Remove the keepers with small needle-nose pliers or a magnet. Remove the valve spring and retainer. Remove the old Valve Stem Oil Seals, noting differences between the intake and exhaust seals. Wrap a rubber band or tape around the top of the valve stem so the valve won't fall into the combustion chamber, then release the air pressure. Inspect the valve stem for damage. Rotate the valve in the guide and check the end for eccentric movement. Move the valve up-and-down in the guide and make sure it does not bind. Reapply air pressure to the cylinder to retain the valve in the closed position, then remove the tape or rubber band from the valve stem. If you're working on an exhaust valve, fit the new exhaust Valve Stem Oil Seal on the valve stem and press it down over the valve guide. If you're working on an intake valve, install a new intake Valve Stem Oil Seal over the valve stem and press it down over the valve guide. Install the spring and retainer in position over the valve. Compress the valve spring assembly only enough to install the keepers in the valve stem. Position the keepers in the valve stem groove. Apply a small dab of grease to the inside of each keeper to hold it in place if necessary. Remove the pressure from the spring tool and make sure the keepers are seated. Disconnect the air hose and remove the adapter from the spark plug hole. Repeat the above procedure on the remaining cylinders. Install the rocker arm assemblies, camshafts, timing chains and the valve covers. Start the engine, then check for oil leaks and unusual sounds coming from the valve cover area. Allow the engine to idle for at least five minutes before revving the engine.

To start with, rotate the crankshaft until the number one piston is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke. Put an adaptor into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source to it. Then you apply compressed air to the cylinder to hold the valves in place. Prevent any parts or tools from falling into the engine by stuffing shop rags into the cylinder head holes around the valves. Tap gently on top of each valve spring retainer with a socket and hammer in order to break the seal between the valve keeper and the spring retainer. Use a small pair of needle nose pliers or a magnet to remove keepers compressed spring using valve-spring compressor. Remove both spring and retainer then replace old valve stem seals. Check whether there is any damage on the valve stem or eccentric movement or binding. If necessary, remove head for repair. Press new stem seals over valve guide until they are at specified depth. Install keepers in valve stem grooves by compressing spring and placing retainers then drop them in said sequence if need be use grease literally just to stick them down tiny bit of grease will do it this time if needed at all . Follow this process for other cylinders in line with their firing order sequence as shown below: Finally, reinstall rocker arm assemblies and valve covers; start engine, check for oil leaks or any other unusual sounds that may be heard from it. Leave engine idling for at least five minutes before revving it.

Reapply air pressure to retain the valve, then install the new valve stem seals for both intake and exhaust valves without forcing them against the top of the guide.