Chevrolet 7846871 AXLE KIT

For standard differentials, it's advisable to use GL-5 hypoid-type gear oil such as SAE 80W or SAE 80W/90. However, for positraction/limited slip differentials, GM recommends a specialized lubricant designed explicitly for these units, typically available at Buick parts departments, due to the unique requirements of limited slip differentials with clutch packs. Regularly checking the oil level in the differential is crucial, ideally performed at each engine oil change or every 7,500 miles (12,000 km). Park the vehicle on a level surface, position a drain pan beneath the filler plug on the front of the differential carrier, and clean the plug and its surroundings. Remove the filler plug, and if the lubricant starts to flow out, the differential is adequately filled. If not, carefully insert a finger to ensure the oil level reaches the filler hole and add oil if necessary. Replace and snugly tighten the plug. When draining and refilling the rear axle lubricant, use a suitable gasket to seal the axle housing cover. There's no fixed interval for changing the rear axle lubricant, but it's recommended when purchasing a used vehicle or if it's been exposed to high water levels. Follow these steps: park on a level surface, set the parking brake, place a drain pan underneath, remove the filler plug, take off the axle cover, drain the fluid, clean the cover, seal both sides of a new gasket with sealant, reinstall the cover with a crisscross tightening pattern, refill the axle with the recommended fluid, replace and snugly tighten the filler plug, check for leaks after a short drive.

There are two axle shafts used in the X-Body cars. These axles are double-offset designs, consisting of an axle shaft with a ball bearing joint on each end which connects the shaft to the transaxle and front hubs respectively. All X-Body axle shafts, except for the left hand inner joint of the automatic transaxle, are retained by a male spline that locks into the transaxle through barrel type snap rings. In the automatic transaxle model, this joint uses a female spline which is fitted onto a shaft within the transaxle. Every axle shaft has a helical spline end which engages with press fit steering knuckle and hub assembly where no play between the axle shaft and hub assembly exists, resulting in a more durable and quieter unit. Any attempt to heat up or straighten any part of these assemblies could result in weakened metal or other damage to be incurred. Damages of rubber seal boots covering joints of driving shafts should be kept away from when working with or being near propeller shaft assemblies due to dirt and water leakage inside as well as breakage of ball bearing.

To start replacing the axle shaft components, you need to detach it from the vehicle. Carefully knock off the outer joint seal retainer from around the joint assembly by tapping evenly all the way round it and severing the seal retaining clamp with a hacksaw blade. The joint assembly is removed from the axle shaft by spreading apart the retaining ring with snap ring pliers. Take off the axle shaft's outer joint seal as well as its seal retainer. To remove ball bearings, softly tap on bearing cage for rotation within outer race. Pivot cage and inner race that aligns windows of cage with lands of outer race are lifted out after balls have been removed. Withdraw inner race by rotating it within cage. Using this method, take out the inner joint assembly, seal retainer, inner joint seal and seal retaining clamp right from the axle shaft. Clean all pieces in solvent; keep separate inner and outer joint assembly parts. Assess races, cages and ball bearings for any damage that may call for replacement. Check condition of rubber seal boots for any holes or cracks; if necessary put in new ones only then apply lithium-based grease into them then begin reassembling parts again. Put back balls and pack grease into joints before applying a new hose clamp or seal retaining clamp onto axle shaft followed by a seal retainer and finally an inner joint assembly's sealing point at doorways to avoid leakages which can be course by looseness during driving. These seals must be tightened to their grooves using clamps in order to adjust them until they fit properly thereby preventing further leakage through these joints in future when driving after installation. Finally follow these steps once more but now installing outer one on other side so do not forget about slide it over shaft while pressing other end of assemble until retaining ring will pop up back into place along entire length. At last reinstall axle shaft into vehicle.

The axle shaft is pushed toward the vehicle's center to remove the C-lock, taking care to avoid damaging the oil seal during extraction.

Connect the brake line clip to the strut bracket, mount the wheel, and lower the car to the ground.

To remove the hub and bearing assembly, you need to remove the bolts securing it to the rear axle and remove the assemblies along with the brake backing plates.

Remove the axleshafts.

For 1978-1980 models, these procedures apply to all models except 'B'.

If the end play is excessive, you should carry out the following operations as the shaft bearing is probably worn.