Chevrolet 15727261 Cylinder Assembly, Clutch Master

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Before starting this procedure, it's advisable to check with local parts stores and dealer service departments to determine whether purchasing a rebuild kit or a new master cylinder is more suitable based on parts availability and cost. If you opt for rebuilding the cylinder, inspect the bore for damage. To remove the master cylinder, begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Then, under the dashboard, remove the steering column covers and lower left air conditioning duct (if present) and disconnect the pushrod from the top of the clutch pedal, secured with a spring clip. Depending on the model year, remove the hydraulic line from the master cylinder, detach the release cylinder from the transmission, or remove the hydraulic line from the release cylinder using a special tool for 1996 and later models. For 1988 through 1992 models, remove the two nuts securing the master cylinder to the firewall and extract the cylinder, taking care to prevent brake fluid contact with the vehicle's paint. For 1993 through 1995 models, remove the nuts and brackets retaining the tubing to the firewall, and remove the master cylinder, release cylinder, and tubing as one unit. For 1996 and later models, rotate the master cylinder 45 degrees clockwise and remove it from the firewall with the tubing attached. To overhaul the master cylinder, follow these steps: if the reservoir is on the cylinder, drain the fluid and remove the reservoir by prying it off the cylinder body; if remotely mounted, remove the adapter and seal. Pull back the dust cover on the pushrod and remove the snap ring. Take out the retaining washer and the pushrod from the cylinder. Tap the master cylinder on a wooden block to eject the piston assembly. Separate the spring from the piston and remove the spring support, seal, and shim from the pushrod. Carefully take off the seal from the plunger. Inspect the cylinder bore for any imperfections, as it must be smooth to the touch; if not, replace the master cylinder. If rebuilding, use new parts from the kit, cleaning all reused components with brake system solvent, denatured alcohol, or clean brake fluid-avoid petroleum-based solvents. Attach the plunger seal to the plunger, ensuring the seal lips face away from the pushrod end. Assemble the shim, spring support, and spring on the opposite end of the plunger. Lubricate the cylinder bore and seals with fresh brake fluid (DOT 3). Carefully guide the piston assembly into the bore, ensuring no damage to the seals, with the spring end installed first. Position the pushrod and retaining washer in the bore, compress the spring, and install a new snap ring. Apply ample rubber grease or equivalent to the inside of the dust cover and attach it to the master cylinder, pressing the seal and reservoir or adapter into the cylinder. To install, attach the master cylinder to the firewall. For 1988 through 1992 models, connect the hydraulic line, being cautious to avoid cross-threading the fitting, or if equipped with a remote reservoir, attach the hose. For 1993 through 1995 models, install the release cylinder and attach the hydraulic line brackets. For 1996 and later models, connect the hydraulic line quick-connect fitting onto the release cylinder by pressing it until it snaps into place. Attach the master cylinder pushrod to the clutch pedal and reassemble the under-dash components that were removed for access. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid (DOT 3) and proceed to bleed the clutch hydraulic system.