Chevrolet 24264182 Cylinder Asm,Clutch Actuator

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Before commencing the procedure, it is advisable to contact local parts stores and dealer service departments to inquire about acquiring a rebuild kit or a new release cylinder, as parts availability and cost considerations may influence the decision between rebuilding or replacing the cylinder.

To disconnect the retainer clip from the clutch slave cylinder pushrod, ensuring the Clutch Slave Cylinder is not damaged when the clutch pedal is depressed, start by raising the vehicle and securely supporting it on jackstands. For 1994 and 1995 models, disconnect the hydraulic line from the Clutch Slave Cylinder by removing the cotter pin and pulling the line straight off its fitting. Then, remove the two Clutch Slave Cylinder mounting nuts and detach the Clutch Slave Cylinder. Install the Clutch Slave Cylinder on the clutch housing, ensuring the pushrod is seated in the release lever pocket. Connect the hydraulic line to the Clutch Slave Cylinder and secure it with a new cotter pin. For 1996 and later models, removal involves removing the transmission and the two Clutch Slave Cylinder retaining bolts. Slide the Clutch Slave Cylinder off the transmission input shaft and inspect the clutch disc and pressure plate assembly while the transmission is removed. Replace as necessary. Clean off the transmission input shaft and coat it with multi-purpose grease. Slide the new Clutch Slave Cylinder onto the input shaft, install the retaining bolts, and tighten them to the specified torque. Finally, install the transmission, fill the clutch fluid reservoir with the recommended fluid, bleed the clutch hydraulic system, and lower the vehicle by removing the jackstands.

The overhaul procedure is applicable to 1992 and earlier models exclusively, as 1993 and later model Clutch Slave Cylinders cannot be rebuilt and require the installation of a new assembly. In the case of 1996 and later models, these vehicles are equipped with a concentric slave cylinder situated inside the transmission bellhousing, with the bleeder valve accessible externally on the bellhousing. However, any servicing or replacement necessitates the removal of the transmission from the vehicle. Before commencing this procedure, it is advisable to contact local parts stores and dealer service departments to inquire about acquiring a rebuild kit or a new Clutch Slave Cylinder, as parts availability and cost considerations may influence the decision between rebuilding or replacing the cylinder. If the choice is to rebuild the cylinder, a thorough inspection of the bore is recommended. For the removal process, begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable. Raise and securely support the vehicle on jackstands. For 1988 through 1992 models, disconnect the hydraulic line from the Clutch Slave Cylinder using a flare-nut wrench to prevent damage to the nut, and be prepared for some fluid spillage. Proceed to remove the two mounting nuts securing the Clutch Slave Cylinder and detach the cylinder. For 1993 through 1995 models, disengage the master cylinder from the clutch pedal and firewall as explained in Section 3, then detach the hydraulic line brackets, remove the Clutch Slave Cylinder mounting nuts, and extract the entire assembly from the vehicle. As for 1996 and later models, utilize a special tool to detach the quick-connect fitting from the Clutch Slave Cylinder, and subsequently remove the transmission. Proceed to remove the Clutch Slave Cylinder mounting bolts and withdraw the cylinder and bearing assembly from the transmission input shaft, separating the bearing from the Clutch Slave Cylinder. To carry out the overhaul, follow these steps: remove the pushrod and the boot, and then eliminate the snap-ring. Tap the cylinder on a wooden block to expel the piston and seal, also removing the spring from within the cylinder. Thoroughly inspect the cylinder bore, checking for deep scratches, score marks, or ridges; the bore must have a smooth surface to the touch. Should any imperfections be found, the Clutch Slave Cylindershould be replaced with a new one. Utilize the new parts provided in the rebuild kit to assemble the components, making sure to use an ample amount of fresh brake fluid for lubrication, and take note of the correct orientation of the spring and the seal. For the installation process, on 1988 through 1992 models, install the Clutch Slave Cylinder on the clutch housing, ensuring the pushrod is correctly seated in the release fork pocket. Then, connect the hydraulic line to the Clutch Slave Cylinder and tighten the fitting, followed by filling the clutch fluid reservoir with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and bleeding the system. For 1993 through 1995 models, lower the assembly from the top, attaching the Clutch Slave Cylinder and leaving the plastic retaining strap on the pushrod intact, as removing it will cause breakage upon depressing the clutch pedal. Ensure the pushrod is properly seated in the release fork pocket and tighten the mounting bolts. Proceed to install the master cylinder and hydraulic line brackets. Notably, the system comes pre-filled and pre-bled from the factory, eliminating the need for additional bleeding. For 1996 and later models, install the release bearing onto the Clutch Slave Cylinder and attach the Clutch Slave Cylinder onto the transmission, aligning the two fittings with the holes in the transmission case. Reinstall the transmission and connect the hydraulic line quick-connect fitting onto the Clutch Slave Cylinder, ensuring it snaps into place. Conclude by bleeding the system. Lower the vehicle and reconnect the negative battery cable.

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