Chevrolet 12557558 Pan,Oil

Disconnect the negative battery cable to start the removal process, and jack up the vehicle on jackstands so that it is secure. To begin with, drain the engine oil and then remove the oil filter. If applicable, remove bellhousing cover strut rods and front engine mount strut rod brackets to unbolt crossover pipe from exhaust manifolds. In addition, remove engine oil cooler or transmission cooler lines from oil pan when necessary. If clearance needs it take off lower bellhousing cover and starter. For 4-wheel drive vehicles do this by removing the skid plate first, followed by removing front driveshaft; also remove some of the bolts/nuts for front driveaxle. Take out wheel leftwards towards rotating drive axle forward in order to pull out front axle shafts. When you have a big block VS engine which has an oil pressure gauge line on one side of its block; you should disconnect it first before removing distributor cap to avoid breakage then pull back fan shroud as far over fan as possible taking care not to damage radiator fins with cardboard if there is little room. Lift engine about three inches using an engine hoist after removing through-bolts from motor mounts ensuring oil pump pickup isn't damaged, distributor doesn't hit firewall, and fan doesn't hit radiator. Put wood blocks between crossmember & engine block to hold raised position then remove engine hoist thereafter. Positioning all engines in such a way that crankshaft's timining mark on vibration damper is at bottom continue by unfastening pan bolts & reinforcements tilting rear of pan down away from crankshaft throws, oil pump pick-up and front cross-member as well as towards bottom away from them also works well Note: for installation use a scraper tool which eliminates old gasket material and sealant from both pan plus block hence clean sealing surfaces via lacquer thinner or acetone while ensuring clean bolt holes in block are made Check pan flange for distortion especially around bolt holes and if so correct it Remove old rubber seals from rear main bearing cap and timing chain cover, clean grooves, install new seals (except engines with one-piece rubber gaskets), use RTV sealant or gasket adhesive to hold the new seals in place then apply RTV to block-to-seal junctions Apply the same sealant to the oil pan side gaskets when applicable Examine the one-piece rubber gasket, discarding it if it is damaged Use RTV silicone on all four corners of the pan gasket; being careful to go at least an inch in each direction from the corner; attach gasket to oil pan Carefully align pan against block, finger-tighten bolts/nuts (including reinforcement strips as required), and ensure that seals/gaskets haven't shifted before tightening them starting at center of pan & working outwards in spiral pattern in 3 steps ending with specified torque Finally, replace all parts in reverse order but never forget about filling engine with oil before starting it.

Disconnect the negative battery cable to start the removal process, and jack up the vehicle on jackstands so that it is secure. To begin with, drain the engine oil and then remove the oil filter. If applicable, remove bellhousing cover strut rods and front engine mount strut rod brackets to unbolt crossover pipe from exhaust manifolds. In addition, remove engine oil cooler or transmission cooler lines from oil pan when necessary. If clearance needs it take off lower bellhousing cover and starter. For 4-wheel drive vehicles do this by removing the skid plate first, followed by removing front driveshaft; also remove some of the bolts/nuts for front driveaxle. Take out wheel leftwards towards rotating drive axle forward in order to pull out front axle shafts. When you have a big block VS engine which has an oil pressure gauge line on one side of its block; you should disconnect it first before removing distributor cap to avoid breakage then pull back fan shroud as far over fan as possible taking care not to damage radiator fins with cardboard if there is little room. Lift engine about three inches using an engine hoist after removing through-bolts from motor mounts ensuring oil pump pickup isn't damaged, distributor doesn't hit firewall, and fan doesn't hit radiator. Put wood blocks between crossmember & engine block to hold raised position then remove engine hoist thereafter. Positioning all engines in such a way that crankshaft's timining mark on vibration damper is at bottom continue by unfastening pan bolts & reinforcements tilting rear of pan down away from crankshaft throws, oil pump pick-up and front cross-member as well as towards bottom away from them also works well Note: for installation use a scraper tool which eliminates old gasket material and sealant from both pan plus block hence clean sealing surfaces via lacquer thinner or acetone while ensuring clean bolt holes in block are made Check pan flange for distortion especially around bolt holes and if so correct it Remove old rubber seals from rear main bearing cap and timing chain cover, clean grooves, install new seals (except engines with one-piece rubber gaskets), use RTV sealant or gasket adhesive to hold the new seals in place then apply RTV to block-to-seal junctions Apply the same sealant to the oil pan side gaskets when applicable Examine the one-piece rubber gasket, discarding it if it is damaged Use RTV silicone on all four corners of the pan gasket; being careful to go at least an inch in each direction from the corner; attach gasket to oil pan Carefully align pan against block, finger-tighten bolts/nuts (including reinforcement strips as required), and ensure that seals/gaskets haven't shifted before tightening them starting at center of pan & working outwards in spiral pattern in 3 steps ending with specified torque Finally, replace all parts in reverse order but never forget about filling engine with oil before starting it.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. For carbureted models, remove the air cleaner assembly, tagging each hose to be disconnected with a piece of numbered tape for easier reinstallation; for fuel injected models, remove the air intake duct. Remove the distributor cap to prevent damage when the engine is raised. Unbolt and remove the top half of the fan shroud. Raise the vehicle and support it on jack-stands. Drain the engine oil. Disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe at the exhaust manifold flanges, lower the exhaust pipes, and suspend them from the frame with wire. If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the converter shroud; if equipped with a manual transmission, remove the flywheel cover. Remove the starter. Remove the throughbolt at each engine mount. Using an engine hoist, raise the engine to allow the oil pan to clear the crossmember, checking clearances all around the engine as it is raised, paying particular attention to the distributor and the cooling fan. Place wood blocks between the frame front crossmember and the engine block, ensuring they are approximately three inches thick. Lower the engine onto the wood blocks, making sure it is firmly supported, and if a hoist is being used, keep the lifting chains secured to the engine. Remove the oil pan bolts, noting the different sizes used and their locations, then remove the oil pan. Before installing the pan, ensure that the sealing surfaces on the pan, block, and front cover are clean and free of oil; if the old pan is being reinstalled, ensure that all sealant has been removed from the pan sealing flange and from the blind attaching holes. With all sealing surfaces clean, place a 1/8-inch bead of ATV sealant on the oil pan sealing flange. Lift the pan into position and install all bolts finger tight, tightening the end bolts first and then the remaining bolts working from the center out to the ends. Lower the engine onto the mounts and install the throughbolts, tightening them to the specified torque. Follow the removal steps in reverse order, fill the crankcase with the correct grade and quantity of oil, start the engine, and check for leaks.

Remove the oil pan nut and the bracket retaining the transmission oil cooler lines.

Drill out the rivets securing the old oil pan gasket and wash out the oil pan with solvent.

If the clearance is okay, tighten the pan bolts/studs in sequence to the torque specifications.

You should remove the crossmember.

Clearance should ideally be flush, but up to 0.011 inches is allowable.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal.

You should wash out the oil pan with solvent.

After all bolts are installed, tighten them to the specified torque using a crisscross pattern and working up to the final torque in three or four steps.