Chevrolet 12557558 Pan,Oil

Disconnect the negative battery cable to start the removal process, and jack up the vehicle on jackstands so that it is secure. To begin with, drain the engine oil and then remove the oil filter. If applicable, remove bellhousing cover strut rods and front engine mount strut rod brackets to unbolt crossover pipe from exhaust manifolds. In addition, remove engine oil cooler or transmission cooler lines from oil pan when necessary. If clearance needs it take off lower bellhousing cover and starter. For 4-wheel drive vehicles do this by removing the skid plate first, followed by removing front driveshaft; also remove some of the bolts/nuts for front driveaxle. Take out wheel leftwards towards rotating drive axle forward in order to pull out front axle shafts. When you have a big block VS engine which has an oil pressure gauge line on one side of its block; you should disconnect it first before removing distributor cap to avoid breakage then pull back fan shroud as far over fan as possible taking care not to damage radiator fins with cardboard if there is little room. Lift engine about three inches using an engine hoist after removing through-bolts from motor mounts ensuring oil pump pickup isn't damaged, distributor doesn't hit firewall, and fan doesn't hit radiator. Put wood blocks between crossmember & engine block to hold raised position then remove engine hoist thereafter. Positioning all engines in such a way that crankshaft's timining mark on vibration damper is at bottom continue by unfastening pan bolts & reinforcements tilting rear of pan down away from crankshaft throws, oil pump pick-up and front cross-member as well as towards bottom away from them also works well Note: for installation use a scraper tool which eliminates old gasket material and sealant from both pan plus block hence clean sealing surfaces via lacquer thinner or acetone while ensuring clean bolt holes in block are made Check pan flange for distortion especially around bolt holes and if so correct it Remove old rubber seals from rear main bearing cap and timing chain cover, clean grooves, install new seals (except engines with one-piece rubber gaskets), use RTV sealant or gasket adhesive to hold the new seals in place then apply RTV to block-to-seal junctions Apply the same sealant to the oil pan side gaskets when applicable Examine the one-piece rubber gasket, discarding it if it is damaged Use RTV silicone on all four corners of the pan gasket; being careful to go at least an inch in each direction from the corner; attach gasket to oil pan Carefully align pan against block, finger-tighten bolts/nuts (including reinforcement strips as required), and ensure that seals/gaskets haven't shifted before tightening them starting at center of pan & working outwards in spiral pattern in 3 steps ending with specified torque Finally, replace all parts in reverse order but never forget about filling engine with oil before starting it.

Disconnect the negative battery cable to start the removal process, and jack up the vehicle on jackstands so that it is secure. To begin with, drain the engine oil and then remove the oil filter. If applicable, remove bellhousing cover strut rods and front engine mount strut rod brackets to unbolt crossover pipe from exhaust manifolds. In addition, remove engine oil cooler or transmission cooler lines from oil pan when necessary. If clearance needs it take off lower bellhousing cover and starter. For 4-wheel drive vehicles do this by removing the skid plate first, followed by removing front driveshaft; also remove some of the bolts/nuts for front driveaxle. Take out wheel leftwards towards rotating drive axle forward in order to pull out front axle shafts. When you have a big block VS engine which has an oil pressure gauge line on one side of its block; you should disconnect it first before removing distributor cap to avoid breakage then pull back fan shroud as far over fan as possible taking care not to damage radiator fins with cardboard if there is little room. Lift engine about three inches using an engine hoist after removing through-bolts from motor mounts ensuring oil pump pickup isn't damaged, distributor doesn't hit firewall, and fan doesn't hit radiator. Put wood blocks between crossmember & engine block to hold raised position then remove engine hoist thereafter. Positioning all engines in such a way that crankshaft's timining mark on vibration damper is at bottom continue by unfastening pan bolts & reinforcements tilting rear of pan down away from crankshaft throws, oil pump pick-up and front cross-member as well as towards bottom away from them also works well Note: for installation use a scraper tool which eliminates old gasket material and sealant from both pan plus block hence clean sealing surfaces via lacquer thinner or acetone while ensuring clean bolt holes in block are made Check pan flange for distortion especially around bolt holes and if so correct it Remove old rubber seals from rear main bearing cap and timing chain cover, clean grooves, install new seals (except engines with one-piece rubber gaskets), use RTV sealant or gasket adhesive to hold the new seals in place then apply RTV to block-to-seal junctions Apply the same sealant to the oil pan side gaskets when applicable Examine the one-piece rubber gasket, discarding it if it is damaged Use RTV silicone on all four corners of the pan gasket; being careful to go at least an inch in each direction from the corner; attach gasket to oil pan Carefully align pan against block, finger-tighten bolts/nuts (including reinforcement strips as required), and ensure that seals/gaskets haven't shifted before tightening them starting at center of pan & working outwards in spiral pattern in 3 steps ending with specified torque Finally, replace all parts in reverse order but never forget about filling engine with oil before starting it.

Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. On carbureted and TBI models, remove the air cleaner assembly, while on TPI models, remove the air intake duct. Remove the distributor cap to prevent damage when the engine is raised. Unbolt and remove the top half of the fan shroud, then raise the vehicle and support it on jack-stands. Drain the engine oil and disconnect the exhaust crossover pipe at the exhaust manifold flanges, lowering the exhaust pipes and suspending them from the frame with wire. If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the converter shroud; if equipped with a manual transmission, remove the flywheel cover. Remove the starter, then turn the bolt at the center of the vibration damper to rotate the crankshaft until the timing mark is facing down at the 6 o'clock position, moving the forward crankshaft throw to the top for clearance at the front of the oil pan. Remove the throughbolt at each engine mount, then raise the engine slightly to allow the oil pan to clear the crossmember, preferably using an engine hoist with lifting chains. Alternatively, place a floor jack and a block of wood under the oil pan, ensuring the wood block spreads the load to prevent damage. Raise the engine slowly until wood blocks can be placed between the frame front crossmember and the engine block, checking clearances around the engine, especially at the distributor and cooling fan. Lower the engine onto the wood blocks, ensuring it is firmly supported, and if a hoist is used, keep the lifting chains secured. Remove the oil pan bolts, noting the different sizes and their locations, then remove the oil pan. Before reinstalling, ensure the sealing surfaces on the pan, block, and front cover are clean, removing any old gasket material if the original oil pan is being reused. Always use new gaskets and seals when installing the pan, lifting it into position and installing all bolts finger tight, tightening the end bolts first and then the remaining bolts from the center out to the ends. Lower the engine onto the mounts and install the throughbolts, then follow the removal steps in reverse order, filling the crankcase with the correct grade and quantity of oil, starting the engine, and checking for leaks.

Remove the ground cable from the battery before lifting the car on jack stands and draining the engines oil. Remove the exhaust pipe from the exhaust manifold and then unbolt the hanger bracket, also, unbolt the through bolts on the motor mounts. Having jacked up the car to a safe level, now using an engine hoist lift the engine just enough to take off the oil pan without contact with the steering and suspension assembly and make sure that the car is well supported while it's in this position. It is dangerous not to work below the engine when the vehicle is only standing on the hoist. Then unscrew the oil pan bolts, and pull the oil pan off the block, third, wash the pan with solvent and clean the adjacent sealing surfaces from any of the remains of old gasket and sealant. The rear pan oil seal must fit into the groove of the rear main bearing cap; use a small amount of ATV sealant at the contact point of the seal and the block. Place the front pan oil seal to the timing cover; secure the rubber tips on the front oil pan gasket into the holes provided in the timing gear cover. Applying again a light coat of gasket sealant as a retainer, place the pan side gaskets on the engine block having all four sections of the oil pan gasket in fit and finish and applying ATV type sealant round the parting line of the front seal and side gaskets. For the oil pan to fit into place, bolt the oil pan to the block with the bolts that fix the pan to the timing cover. All the bolts shall be tightened and the tightening sequence shall be crisscross at the same torque across the flanges and Washers, and the torque shall be tightened gradually at least in three or four steps. As for the rest of the steps, they are the inverted of the removal procedure that was depicted above.

Attach the new gasket to the pan, install it, and tighten the bolts finger-tight, ensuring proper alignment of the oil gallery passages.

Remove the oil pan nut and the bracket retaining the transmission oil cooler lines.

You should wash out the oil pan with solvent.

You should remove the crossmember.

The first step is to disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery.

Disconnect it at the exhaust manifold flanges, lower the exhaust pipes, and suspend them from the frame with wire.