GM 457196 Front Wheel Bearing

Pry the dust cap from the hub, taking care not to distort or damage its flange. Once the bent ends of the cotter pin are cut, grasp it and pull or pry it free of the spindle; if difficulty is encountered, gently tap on the pliers with a hammer to help free the cotter pin. Loosen and remove the castellated nut from the spindle, then remove the washer. With the nut and washer out of the way, the outer bearings may be removed from the hub, followed by pulling the hub and inner bearing assembly from the spindle. Use a small pry tool to remove the old inner bearing seal, and with the seal removed, withdraw the inner bearing from the hub. Thoroughly pack the bearing with fresh, high-temperature wheel bearing grease before installation, and apply a thin coating of fresh grease to the new inner bearing seal lip. Tighten the nut to 12 ft. lbs. (16 Nm) while gently spinning the wheel, then adjust the bearings. After adjusting, install the dust cap by tapping its flange without hammering the center. To begin, raise and support the vehicle safely on jack stands, remove the wheel assembly, and then the caliper. Pry off the dust cap, straighten or cut the cotter pin, and remove it along with the locknut. Carefully pull off the brake disc and wheel hub without dropping the outer bearing, then remove the grease inside the wheel hub. Using a brass drift, carefully drive the outer bearing race out of the hub, followed by removing the inner grease seal and bearing. Check the bearings for wear or damage and replace them if necessary. For installation, coat the inner surface of the hub with grease, grease the outer surface of the bearing race, and drift it into place in the hub. Pack the inner and outer wheel bearings with grease, and if the brake disc has been removed or replaced, lighten the retaining bolts to specification. Install the inner bearing in the hub, ensuring not to distort it, and install the oil seal with its lip facing the bearing, driving the seal on until its outer edge is even with the edge of the hub. Install the hub/disc assembly on the spindle, being careful not to damage the oil seal, then install the outer bearing, washer, and spindle nut, adjusting the bearing as needed. For adjustment, remove the wheel and dust cover, then take out the cotter pin and lock cap from the nut. Tighten the wheel bearing nut to 14 ft. lbs. (19 Nm), loosen it, and retighten to 4 ft. lbs. (5 Nm). Finally, install the lock cap and cotter pin, followed by the dust cover and wheel assembly.

This procedure applies to 2002 and earlier models only, as 2003 and later models have a sealed bearing. In most cases, front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed, but they should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised. Required items include a torque wrench and special grease. With the vehicle securely supported on jackstands, spin each wheel to check for noise, rolling resistance, and free play. Grasp the top and bottom of each tire and move the wheel in-and-out on the spindle; noticeable movement indicates the need for bearing inspection and possible repacking or replacement. Remove the wheel and brake caliper, then pry the dust cap out of the hub. Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the locking nut, discarding it and preparing to use a new one during reassembly. Remove the spindle nut and washer, then pull the hub assembly out slightly and push it back to force the outer bearing off the spindle. Pull the hub off the spindle and use a screwdriver to pry the seal out of the rear of the hub, noting its installation. Remove the inner wheel bearing and clean all traces of old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle using solvent, allowing parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for damage and check the bearing races inside the hub for wear; if defective, drive out the old races and install new ones carefully. Pack the bearings with high-temperature front wheel bearing grease, ensuring it is fully worked into the bearings. Apply grease to the spindle and place a small quantity inboard of each bearing race inside the hub. Insert the grease-packed inner bearing into the hub, add more grease outboard, and tap a new seal into place until flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle, pushing the outer bearing into position, then install the washer and spindle nut, tightening it slightly. Spin the hub to seat the bearings and check the tightness of the spindle nut, adjusting as necessary. Tighten the nut by hand until snug, install a new cotter pin, and bend its ends flat against the nut, cutting off any excess. Install the dust cap, then place the brake caliper near the rotor, remove the wood spacer, and install the caliper. Finally, install the tire/wheel assembly on the hub, tighten the lug nuts, and check the bearings again before lowering the vehicle and tightening the wheel lug nuts to the specified torque.

Remove the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be required, or a tool that engages behind the bearing must be fabricated; a slide hammer with a special bearing puller attachment is necessary to pull the axleshaft bearing from the axle housing. Attach a slide hammer and pull the bearing from the axle housing. Clean out the bearing recess and drive in the new bearing using a special bearing driver available in most auto parts stores; this tool is essential to install the axleshaft bearing without causing damage. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant, ensuring it is tapped into the full depth of its recess with the numbers on the bearing visible from the outer end of the housing. Discard the old oil seal and install a new one, then install the axleshaft.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed, but they should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, or free play. If the tire moves more than 0.005 inches when pushed in and out, the bearings should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hub cap and wheel. Use an Allen wrench to remove the two bolts securing the disc brake caliper to its support. Fabricate a wood block (17/16 inch by 17/16 inch by 2 inches in length) to keep the brake pads separated, then carefully slide the caliper off the disc and insert the wood block between the pads, using wire to hang the caliper assembly out of the way without damaging the brake hose. Pry the hub grease cap off the hub using a screwdriver, then use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin and pull it out of the locking nut, discarding it for a new one during reassembly. Remove the spindle nut and its washer from the end of the spindle, then pull the hub assembly outward slightly and push it back into its original position to force the outer bearing off the spindle enough for removal. The hub assembly can then be pulled off the spindle. On the rear side of the hub, pry out the inner bearing lip seal with a screwdriver, noting the direction of installation, and remove the inner bearing from the hub, again noting its installation. Use clean parts solvent to remove all traces of old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle, allowing the parts to air dry. Inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, or bent rollers, and check the bearing races inside the hub for any damage; if replacement is needed, it is best left to a repair shop. Pack the bearings with approved high-temperature front wheel bearing grease, ensuring it is fully worked into the bearings. Apply a thin coat of grease to the spindle at the outer and inner bearing seats, as well as the shoulder and seal seat. Place a small quantity of grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub, forming a dam with your finger to provide extra grease availability. Insert the grease-packed inner bearing into the rear of the hub, adding more grease outboard of the bearing, then place a new seal over the inner bearing and tap it until flush with the hub. Carefully place the hub assembly onto the spindle and push the grease-packed outer bearing into position, then install the washer and spindle nut, tightening it slightly to 12 ft-lbs of torque. Spin the hub in a forward direction to seat the bearings and remove any excess grease or burrs. Add a little grease outboard of the outer bearing for extra availability, then check that the spindle nut is still tight at 12 ft-lbs. Loosen the spindle nut until it is just loose, then using your hand, tighten it until snug. Install a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and spindle nut, adjusting the nut slightly if necessary to align the slots. Bend the ends of the new cotter pin flat against the nut and cut off any excess length. Install the dust cap by tapping it into place with a rubber mallet. Place the brake caliper near the rotor and carefully remove the wood block spacers, sliding the caliper over the rotor and tightening the caliper mounting bolts to 35 ft-lbs. Install the tire/wheel assembly to the hub and tighten the mounting nuts. Finally, check the bearings again by grabbing the top and bottom of the tire, lower the vehicle to the ground, fully tighten the wheel nuts, and install the hub cap, using a rubber mallet to seat it completely.

To replace the axleshaft and oil seal, use a bearing extractor or custom tool. After removing the bearing, clean its recess. Drive the new bearing in using tubing against its outer track. Lubricate with gear oil, ensuring bearing numbers are visible. Discard the old oil seal, install a new one, and re-install the axleshaft.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised, typically coinciding with brake pad replacement. The vehicle must be supported safely on jackstands and each wheel assessed by spinning it while checking for noise, rolling resistance and freeplay. You should grab the top and bottom of each tire to check for excessive play as you move the wheel in and out on the spindle; if there is any noticeable movement, bearing inspection, repacking with grease or replacement is required. After removing the wheel, remove the brake caliper and hang it out of your way possibly using a wood block between the brake pads for separation. Thereafter pry out dust cap, straighten and remove cotter pin then take off nut lock, nut, and washer from spindle. Slightly pull hub/disc assembly outwardly then push it back to facilitate removal of outer bearing. Then separate hub/disc assembly from spindle using screwdriver skimming seal out of rear side of hub keeping in mind how it was oriented during its installation. Proceed further to remove inner wheel bearing, clean all components thoroughly with solvent before carefully inspecting them for damage on races or bearings themselves. Replace any defective bearing races at a machine shop if necessary making sure that old bearings are not installed on new races. Thereafter pack bearings with high-temperature front wheel bearing grease and apply thin coat to designated spindle areas. Finger dam grease inboard of each bearing race inside the hub to contain excess grease. After this insert grease-packed inner bearing, a new seal then put outer bearing on top. Place washer on spindle followed by spindle nut which should be tightened gently; spin hub while tightening to approximately 20 ft-lbs then loosen 1/4-turn and finally secure snugly by hand using new cotter pin plus nut lock. Next install dust cap; replace brake caliper; re-attach the wheel then check condition of bearings by grabbing top & bottom of the tire. Finally, lower the vehicle.

For front wheel bearings, it's typically necessary to inspect them when changing brake pads or when the front wheels are raised for any reason. To check, with the vehicle on jackstands, spin the wheel and assess noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay. Grab the tire's top and bottom, and if it moves more than 0.005 inches, inspect and repack or replace the bearings. To remove the bearings for replacement or repacking, remove the hub cap and wheel, followed by the caliper. Hang the caliper aside, pry out the dust cap, and remove the cotter pin and spindle nut. Pull the hub assembly to remove the outer bearing, and then take off the inner bearing and lip seal. Clean all components thoroughly, inspect for damage, and regrease the bearings. Install them, along with a new seal and cotter pin, adjust the spindle nut, and reinstall the dust cap, caliper, wheel, and hub cap. Finally, lower the vehicle and tighten the lug nuts.

In most cases, the front wheel bearings will not need servicing until the brake pads are changed. However, these bearings should be checked whenever the front wheels are raised for any reason. With the vehicle securely supported on jack stands, spin the wheel and check for noise, rolling resistance, or free play. Now grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Move the tire in and out on the spindle. If it moves more than 0.005in, the bearings should be checked, then repacked with grease or replaced if necessary. To remove the bearings for replacing or repacking, begin by removing the hubcap and wheel. Using an Allen wrench of the proper size, remove the two bolts which secure the disc brake caliper to its support. Fabricate a wood block which will be slid between the brake pads to keep them separated. Carefully slide the caliper off the disc and insert the wood block between the pads. Use wire to hang the caliper assembly out of the way. Be careful not to kink or damage the brake hose. Pry the hub grease cap off the hub using a screwdriver. Use needle-nose pliers to straighten the bent ends of the cotter pin and then pull the cotter pin out of the locking nut. Discard the cotter pin, as a new one should be used on reassembly. Remove the spindle nut and its washer from the end of the spindle. Pull the hub assembly outward slightly and then push it back into its original position. This should force the outer bearing off the spindle enough so that it can be removed with your fingers. Remove the outer bearing, noting how it is installed on the end of the spindle. Now the hub assembly can be pulled off the spindle. On the rear side of the hub, use a screwdriver to pry out the inner bearing lip seal. As this is done, note the direction in which the seal is installed. The inner bearing can now be removed from the hub, again noting how it is installed. Use clean parts solvent to remove all traces of the old grease from the bearings, hub, and spindle. A small brush may prove useful; however, make sure no bristles from the brush embed themselves inside the bearing rollers. Allow the parts to air dry. Carefully inspect the bearings for cracks, heat discoloration, bent rollers, etc. Check the bearing races inside the hub for cracks, scoring, or uneven surfaces.

On models equipped with a Borg-Warner rear axle assembly, service procedures should be limited to routine maintenance only, as repairs related to the differential assembly, axleshafts, axle bearings, and seals require special tools and expertise, necessitating a professional mechanic. To determine if your vehicle has a Borg-Warner rear axle, match the axle number stamped on the right side axle housing with the axle codes. Begin by removing the axleshaft and the oil seal. A bearing puller will be necessary, or a tool that engages behind the bearing may need to be fabricated. Attach a slide hammer to pull the bearing from the axle housing, using a bearing puller for the rear axleshaft bearing removal. Lubricate the new bearing with gear lubricant, clean the bearing recess, and drive in the new bearing using a bearing driver or a section of pipe against the outer bearing race, ensuring it is seated fully and that the numbers on the bearing are visible from the outer end of the housing. Finally, discard the old oil seal, install a new one, and then reinstall the axleshaft.

Torque the lug nuts and axle nuts to specification and recheck for looseness. If the wheel bearing is worn or damaged, it should be replaced. If the wheel bearing is out of adjustment, adjust it to specification; if it remains loose, replacement is necessary.

A bearing puller which grips the bearing from behind is required.

The new bearing can be installed using a bearing installer or a piece of pipe against the outer bearing race.

Front wheel bearings should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised, typically coinciding with brake pad replacement. During inspection, assess each wheel by spinning it and examining for noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay.

Install a new oil seal.

To remove the front wheel bearings, pry out the dust cap, straighten and remove the cotter pin, and then eliminate the nut lock, nut, and washer from the spindle.

Front wheel bearings should be checked whenever the front of the vehicle is raised, typically coinciding with brake pad replacement. During inspection, assess each wheel by spinning it and examining for noise, rolling resistance, and freeplay.