GM 90537283 Engine Crankshaft FLYWHEEL

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring (automatic transaxle only). If you're working on a manual transaxle equipped vehicle, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components. Use a center punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during installation. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. If an automatic transaxle-equipped vehicle has a spacer between the crankshaft and the driveplate, note which way it was installed. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft, installing the spacer if one was present originally. Be sure to align the mating marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolls, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning and tighten the bolts to the torque. Work up to the final torque. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring (automatic transaxle only). If you're working on a manual transaxle equipped vehicle, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components. Use a center punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during installation. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. If an automatic transaxle-equipped vehicle has a spacer between the crankshaft and the driveplate, note which way it was installed. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft, installing the spacer if one was present originally. Be sure to align the mating marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolls, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning and tighten the bolts to the torque. Work up to the final torque. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Remove the transaxle, then take out the bolts securing the driveplate to the crankshaft. Clean the driveplate and inspect its surface for cracks, as well as check for worn, cracked, or broken ring-gear teeth. Lay the driveplate on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the driveplate and crankshaft, and if the crankshaft oil seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the driveplate. Position the driveplate against the crankshaft and install the washer plate. Tighten the bolts in a criss-cross pattern in several stages to the specified torque. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse of the removal procedure.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/0-ring (automatic transaxle only). If you're working on a manual transaxle equipped vehicles, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components. Use a center punch or paint to make alignment marks on the fly-wheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during reinstallation. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. Automatic transmission equipped vehicles have a spacer between the crankshaft and the driveplate. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolts, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning and tighten the bolts to the specific torque. Work up to the final torque in three or four steps. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/0-ring (automatic transaxle only). If you're working on a manual transaxle equipped vehicles, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components. Use a center punch or paint to make alignment marks on the fly-wheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during reinstallation. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. Automatic transmission equipped vehicles have a spacer between the crankshaft and the driveplate. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft. Be sure to align the marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolts, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning and tighten the bolts to the specific torque. Work up to the final torque in three or four steps. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

In case of removal of transaxle the vehicle should first be lifted and supported on jackstands and then the removal should be done as given below. If there is any leak, it may be useful to replace the front pump seal or O-ring of automatic transaxles at this time. For the manual transaxle vehicles, remove the pressure plate together with the clutch disc; it is advisable to inspect or replace the clutch parts. Place visible alignment spots on the flywheel or driveplate and the crankshaft to ease alignment during the reassembly process and this could be done by marking with a center punch or painting. Then, take out the bolts of the flywheel or driveplate to the crankshaft; if the crankshaft continues to turn, wedge it with a flat screwdriver into the flywheel between the teeth of the ring gear. Remove the old bolts and then use new ones during the process of installing them. While doing this, one must be very slow especially when mortising the last bolt as you support the flywheel or drive plate, also if there is a spacer, one should note the direction of the spacer to be fitted. In order to examine the flywheel for crack, Rivet groves, burnt area and score marks, the flywheel should be cleaned to remove grease and oil, light score marked can be smoothed by use of emery cloth. Ensure that the ring gear teeth are not cracked or broken and the flywheel is flat that can be done by placing a straight edge on it. Check and, if necessary clean the mating faces of flywheel or drive plate and crankshaft, also, replacing the crankshaft rear seal , if it was found to be leaking. Align the crankshaft and flywheel or driveplate to meet the marks taken before removing the unit, and put back any spacer that may have been removed. It may be possible to assist the alignment of some engine types through the use of alignment dowels or staggered bolt holes. To those threads that do not already have a layer of thread locking compound, apply some now before wedging a screwdriver into the ring gear teeth of the sprocket with just enough pressure to prevent the bolts following tightening from moving back out again, and tighten the bolts to the specified torque value, increasing gradually over about three or four turns. The rest of the installation steps will take place in the reverse order to that of the removal steps listed above.

Clean it to remove grease and oil.