GM 22008230

To test the shock absorber, you have to hold it in an upright position and work the piston rod up and down its full length of travel for four or five times. If there is a strong resistance, it means that the hydraulic pressure is working well. On the other hand, if there's no marked resistance or a sudden free movement in travel, it has to be repaired or replaced. Also, if a lot of fluid is seen on the outside of the shock absorber should also be repaired or replaced. It's possible to strip the shock and fit new parts but this work takes attention to detail and cleanliness. You will also need many small parts as well as some special tools too. So, it's probably best for a home mechanic to take his/her shocks to a GM dealer or MacPherson strut shock absorbers repair shop for cartridge replacement.

Do not disassemble a front shock absorber spring that is under high pressure without using specific tools for it; otherwise, you may sustain serious injury. A strut spring compressor can be bought or rented from either GM dealers or auto parts shops. To remove the spring, secure the shock in a vise with blocks of wood to safeguard it. Observe guidelines provided by the manufacturer as regards use of this device: compressing the springs and ensuring that jaws are securely around any coils. Gradually tighten up the compressor to clear the spring seat, before removing the top locknut and washer. Take out." Mounting's," bumper," "shield," and "insulator.'' Do not forget to relieve tension on your spring from such a position then remove it safely off its shock absorber. Thenceforward establish if there is any damage or distortion on a coil spring itself thereupon test these anteriorial devices for compression force resistance. Using a spring compressor, compress the spring and fit over the body of a shock absorber making sure that lower coil engages into seat of a spiral unit. Install insulator, shield, bumper first then install mounting assembly together with seating area for springs too. In conclusion piston rod locknut must be tightened while releasing load transferring part via gradual release of winding down instrument on spool spring helical ones left above have been properly grounded in place.

Raise the front of the car and support it on jackstands. Remove the wheel. Make a mark on the cam bolt to retain the same camber adjustment upon installation. Loosen, but do not yet remove the strut-to-steering knuckle bolts. Loosen, but do not yet remove the 3 bolts that secure the top of the strut assembly to the shock well, underneath the hood. Disconnect the brake line clip from its mounting tab on the strut. Remove all of the loosened bolts and lift out the strut damper assembly. Be careful not to damage the rubber drive axle boot located below the assembly during removal. To install, position the strut damper assembly in its proper location and install its upper and lower mounting bolts. Place a jack under the hub and disc brake rotor assembly to hold it in position. Lower the car enough to set the cam adjuster in its position. Install the brake line clip to its mounting tab on the front strut. Torque all the strut damper assembly mounting bolts to specs. Install the wheel and lower the car. If the strut damper assembly has been replaced, a front end alignment is necessary.

In the rear compartment of the car, open the upper shock nut access panel in the trim cover (hatchbacks only) and remove the upper shock nut. The upper shock stud must be kept from turning while the nut is loosened. Raise the rear of the car enough to take the weight off of the suspension, but do not lift the tires off the ground. Support the car with jackstands placed at suitable locations under the car's frame. Do not place them under the rear axle. If more clearance is needed under the car, the car can be raised higher, but then the rear axle must also be supported with jackstands. Remove the lower shock attaching bolt and nut and remove the shock. It may be necessary to use a screwdriver to pry the lower end of the shock out of its mounting bracket. The shock should be compressed and then extended its full length a few times to check for any free movement of the shaft, noise, or fluid leakage. If any of these conditions are found the shocks should be replaced with a new set. To install, extend the shock to its full length and place it in its lower mount. Then feed the lower attaching bolt through the mount and shock and install the nut loosely. Lower the car enough to guide the shack's upper stud through the body opening and loosely Install the upper attaching nut. Tighten the lower attaching nut, torquing it to specs. Lower the car completely and torque the upper attaching nut to specs. Again the upper shock stud must be kept from turning while tightening the upper nut. On hatchback models, close the access panel in the trim cover.