GM 88969964 Cv Axle Shaft (W/Wheel Speed Sensor Ring)

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Power is transmitted from the transaxle to the wheels through a pair of axle shafts. The inner end of each axle shaft is splined into the differential side gears. The outer ends of the axle shafts are splined to the axle hubs and locked in place by a large nut. The inner ends of the axle shafts are equipped with sliding constant velocity joints, which are capable of both angular and axial motion. Each inner joint assembly consists of a tripod bearing and a joint housing (outer race) in which the joint is free to slide in and out as the axle shaft moves up and down with the wheel. The joints can be disassembled and cleaned in the event of a boot failure, but if any parts are damaged, the joints must be replaced as a unit. When buying parts for an axle shaft, or a complete replacement axle shaft assembly, make sure you get the correct components. The outer CV joints consist of ball bearings running between an inner race and an outer cage, and are capable of angular but not axial movement. The outer joints should be cleaned, inspected, and repacked, but they cannot be disassembled. If an outer joint is damaged, it must be replaced along with the axle shaft. The boots should be inspected periodically for damage and leaking lubricant. Torn CV joint boots must be replaced immediately or the joints can be damaged. Boot replacement involves removal of the axle shaft. The most common symptom of worn or damaged CV joints, besides lubricant leaks, is a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating after coasting, and vibration at highway speeds. To check for wear in the CV joints and axle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in both directions while holding the CV joint housings, feeling for play indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also check the axle shafts for cracks, dents, and distortion.

Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery, set the parking brake, and loosen the front wheel lugnuts. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands before removing the wheel. Unstake the axle shaft/hub nut and remove it, using a prybar wedged between two of the wheel studs to prevent the hub from turning. Tap the end of the axle shaft with a soft-faced hammer or a hammer and a brass punch to loosen it from the hub splines. If the axle shaft is stuck, remove the brake disc and push it from the hub with a two-jaw puller. Remove the engine splash shields and place a drain pan underneath the transaxle to catch any lubricant that may spill out when the axle shaft is removed. Remove the nuts and bolt securing the balljoint to the control arm, then pry the control arm down to separate the components. Pull out on the steering knuckle and detach the axle shaft from the hub, supporting the outer end of the axle shaft with a piece of wire if necessary. Carefully pry the inner CV joint out of the transaxle. To install, reverse the removal procedure, pushing the axle shaft sharply in to seat the retaining ring on the inner CV joint in the groove in the differential side gear. Tighten the new axle shaft/hub nut to the torque specifications, then stake the collar of the nut into the groove in the axle shaft. Tighten the lug nuts to the proper torque specifications and check the transaxle lubricant, adding if necessary to bring it to the proper level.