GM 10166343 Spring, Valve *Green Inside Diameter

It is possible to replace broken valve springs and defective Valve Stem Oil Seals without removing the cylinder head. In most cases, this operation requires two special tools and a compressed air source. In the absence of compressed air, however, a length of nylon rope can be used to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder during this procedure. To get started take out the spark plug in that particular cylinder and also ignition coil assembly. Following that, remove cams (if applicable), lifters as well as housings. Then turn the crankshaft until it positions a piston at top dead center on the compression stroke in that affected cylinder. Screw an adaptor into hole for sparkplug and connect an air hose for compressed air supply to it. Feed some compressed air into cylinder to hold valves in place. Or if there is no compressed air take another step by keeping a piston about 45 degrees before TDC on its compression stroke and pass through a long piece of nylon rope via spark plug hole. Now rotate crankshaft in normal rotation direction until it feels slight resistance against it. Put clean rags around holes next to valves so they won't tumble away with pieces or tools down into your engine block. Use valve spring compressor tool to press down on spring and release keepers; remove them first then retainer next spring followed by guide seal rotator The condition of the stem must be checked out for any damage or eccentric movement for checking bind while moving valve up and down vertically within guide Reintroduce air pressure or turn crankshaft round until valve stays closed Repositioning of the valve rotator consequently needs lubrication on stem once more while inserting new guide seal Dust off accumulated debris from guides; finally install new seal then put back retainer, spring together with keepers Detach the hosepipe or pull out rope eventually Replace cam(s), lifters along with housing(s) afterwards start driving your car listening for any unusual sound which may come about and look for oil seeping.

Exhaust and intake valve springs for a doubled valve train can be replaced without having to remove the cylinder head of the car, which will take approximately two special tools and a source of compressed air. First, the spark plugs, the valve covers, the cams and the rockers must be taken out. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to this end and the other end must be connected to a compressed air supply. Use compressed air on the cylinder to fix the valves in position against the effects of the liquid. Lightly strike the top of each valve spring retainer to free the valve keeper from the spring retainer Employing a valve-spring compressor, compress the valve spring and extract the keepers by means of needle-nose pliers or magnet. Take off the valve spring and the retainer with utmost care to avoid the pressure of lifting the valve, while the air pressure is still retaining it in the closed position. Take out the previous valve stem seals; it is possible to tell an intake seal from an exhaust seal by how they are designed, and round the upper part of the valve stem with a rubber band or tape to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber once again, before relieving the air pressure . It is also advisable to examine the valve stem to see if it is damaged and in the process check if the stem binds in the guide. Vibration pressure is then applied to lock the valve back in place and a new valve stem seal is fitted for the intake as well as the exhaust valves without requiring the valve to be pressed up against the top guide. Place the spring and retainer over the valve pushing the assembly just enough to fit the keepers to it, If needed use a little grease to hold the keepers in place. Take the pressure off the spring tool and make sure that the keepers are in place, then detach the air hose and take of the adapter off the spark plug hole. Perform the same for the rest cylinders, and finally fit the rocker arm assemblies, the cam shafts, the timing chains, and the valve covers. Turn on the engine to look for such signs as oil dripping and strange noises, let the car run for at least five minutes then rev it up.

That can be done without the removal of the cylinder head, and it has been reported that only two special tools and compressed air are needed. Lacking a source of compressed air, one can use a piece of nylon cord to secure the valves in the proper position, so they wouldn't accidentally fall to the bottom of the cylinder. Start by the elimination of the cam carrier and the spark plugs from the cylinders in question, regardless of the number of valve stem seals that will be replaced, all the plugs should be taken out. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston of the cylinder to be checked is positioned at the TDC, this should be done cylinder by cylinder strictly on the firing order bases. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to this unit from the compressed air. Use compressed air on the cylinder, careful that you do not force the piston down as this may cause the crankshaft to rotate. The air pressure is said to keep the valves tightly abreast; in the event that there are problems in this aspect, a valve grinding may be required. If nylon rope is to be used, the piston must be just prior to TDC, the combustion chamber filled with the rope, and the crankshaft turned until slight pressure is encountered. Shove pieces of paper into the ports of the cylinder head to avoid dropping 'things' then compress the valve spring using the spring compressor to remove the keepers. When you have fully dismantled the engine, stripping the engine completely, to get at the essential components of the engine you have to unscrew the spring retainer and valve spring then you remove the valve guide seal. Tie the fatty valve stem with a rubber band or tape for it not to droop, if using rope, either blow out the pressure or slightly turn the crankshaft in the opposite direction. Check the condition of the valve stem with the movement of the head; if the stem is stiff to move in the guide, then head will require to be unbolted for necessary repairs. Maintain pressure on the air pressure to make the valve closed, untie the tape or rubber band, oil the valve stem with the engine oil and fit a new valve guide seal. Suspend the valve with the spring above the valve and insert the spring retainer in place, in order to compress the spring, the keepers should be carefully inserted into the retainer, the greasing them for them to hold in place tightly. Release the air hose, unscrew the adapter, screw the spark plugs back and wire them, put back the cam carrier. Last but not the least, turn on the engine and look for signs of oil dripping and any strange sound coming from the area of the valve cover.

Valve springs and valve stem seals that are broken or defective do not have to be replaced with the cylinder head removed, and the job requires generally two special tools and a compressed air line. In the absence of compressed air, a piece of nylon rope can be utilised in order to prevent the valves from falling into the cylinder. Start with unscrewing the valve cover along with the spark plug from the cylinder concerned, if it is an individual cylinder valve stem seal replacement, or all spark plugs if you're replacing all the valve stem seals. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston is at TDC on the compression stroke, although the operation is done cylinder by cylinder in the firing sequence. Insert a threaded adaptor into the spark plug hole while connecting an air compressor to the other terminal of the air hose. The bolt holding the defective valve, pivot ball, and rocker arm should be unscrewed, and the pushrod ought to be withdrawn. Use compressed air on the cylinder, thereby restraining the valves with the barrel pressure. Should air pressure not deliver, a valve job might be in order. Otherwise, place the piston slightly before the top dead centre, push a nylon rope into the combustion chamber and turn the crankshaft until it meets some opposition. Employ shop rags so that the parts do not drop into the engine then compress the valve spring using a valve spring compressor and pull the keepers. First you should take off the spring retainer and the valve spring afterward the valve guide seal. If the pressure keeps the valve closed, the valve face or seat may get ruined, and thereby one has to remove the cylinder head. Loosen a rubber band or some tape around the valve stem so that it does not fall off then deflate the tire. Visually check for some degree of wear on the valve stem and then check that it rotates with ease in the guide. Admit air pressure in order to reseat the valve, coat the valve stem with engine oil and put on a new valve guide slug. Place the spring over the valve, put the spring retainer in place, push the spring down and put the keepers in place and grease them if required. Pull the air hose off, take the adapter out and replace the rocker arms and the push rods, spark plugs and the wires. Last of all, fit back the valve cover, if required tighten the bolts, start the engine and do look out for any dripping of oil or any strange noise.

Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source.