GM 10166343 Spring, Valve *Green Inside Diameter

When replacing broken valve springs and defective Valve Stem Oil Seals, the cylinder head does not need to be taken out. For this, two special tools and a source of compressed air are needed. If there is no compressed air, then a nylon rope will help to prevent the valves from dropping inside the cylinder. To do this one can remove the rocker arm cover and spark plug, rotate the crankshaft to top dead center, connect an air hose to the spark plug hole, take off the rocker arm and pushrod, provide compressed air for the cylinder and use a valve spring compressor to extract valve spring and seal. It's vital to check for any harm on the valve stem before you install new Valve Stem Oil Seals. Finally reinstalling of valve spring retainer keepers is done followed by putting back the rocker arm pushrod spark plug as well as rocker arm cover.

It is possible to replace broken valve springs and defective Valve Stem Oil Seals without removing the cylinder head. In most cases, this operation requires two special tools and a compressed air source. In the absence of compressed air, however, a length of nylon rope can be used to keep the valves from dropping into the cylinder during this procedure. To get started take out the spark plug in that particular cylinder and also ignition coil assembly. Following that, remove cams (if applicable), lifters as well as housings. Then turn the crankshaft until it positions a piston at top dead center on the compression stroke in that affected cylinder. Screw an adaptor into hole for sparkplug and connect an air hose for compressed air supply to it. Feed some compressed air into cylinder to hold valves in place. Or if there is no compressed air take another step by keeping a piston about 45 degrees before TDC on its compression stroke and pass through a long piece of nylon rope via spark plug hole. Now rotate crankshaft in normal rotation direction until it feels slight resistance against it. Put clean rags around holes next to valves so they won't tumble away with pieces or tools down into your engine block. Use valve spring compressor tool to press down on spring and release keepers; remove them first then retainer next spring followed by guide seal rotator The condition of the stem must be checked out for any damage or eccentric movement for checking bind while moving valve up and down vertically within guide Reintroduce air pressure or turn crankshaft round until valve stays closed Repositioning of the valve rotator consequently needs lubrication on stem once more while inserting new guide seal Dust off accumulated debris from guides; finally install new seal then put back retainer, spring together with keepers Detach the hosepipe or pull out rope eventually Replace cam(s), lifters along with housing(s) afterwards start driving your car listening for any unusual sound which may come about and look for oil seeping.

Exhaust and intake valve springs for a doubled valve train can be replaced without having to remove the cylinder head of the car, which will take approximately two special tools and a source of compressed air. First, the spark plugs, the valve covers, the cams and the rockers must be taken out. Insert an adapter into the spark plug hole and attach an air hose to this end and the other end must be connected to a compressed air supply. Use compressed air on the cylinder to fix the valves in position against the effects of the liquid. Lightly strike the top of each valve spring retainer to free the valve keeper from the spring retainer Employing a valve-spring compressor, compress the valve spring and extract the keepers by means of needle-nose pliers or magnet. Take off the valve spring and the retainer with utmost care to avoid the pressure of lifting the valve, while the air pressure is still retaining it in the closed position. Take out the previous valve stem seals; it is possible to tell an intake seal from an exhaust seal by how they are designed, and round the upper part of the valve stem with a rubber band or tape to prevent it from falling into the combustion chamber once again, before relieving the air pressure . It is also advisable to examine the valve stem to see if it is damaged and in the process check if the stem binds in the guide. Vibration pressure is then applied to lock the valve back in place and a new valve stem seal is fitted for the intake as well as the exhaust valves without requiring the valve to be pressed up against the top guide. Place the spring and retainer over the valve pushing the assembly just enough to fit the keepers to it, If needed use a little grease to hold the keepers in place. Take the pressure off the spring tool and make sure that the keepers are in place, then detach the air hose and take of the adapter off the spark plug hole. Perform the same for the rest cylinders, and finally fit the rocker arm assemblies, the cam shafts, the timing chains, and the valve covers. Turn on the engine to look for such signs as oil dripping and strange noises, let the car run for at least five minutes then rev it up.

Internal lash lifters can be replaced while the crankshaft is still in the engine, while the more complicated and time consuming substitute jobs that involve the replacement of free or broken valve springs or a defective valve stem seal seldom call for more than the removal of the cylinder head which normally demands two special tools and a source of compressed air. Under circumstances where compressed air is not possible, a piece of nylon string may be utilised to keep the valves from falling into the cylinder. Start with the dismantling of the spark plug from the cylinder having a defective part, and if all the valve stem seals are being replaced at one go, then apart from the spark plug, both the camshaft housings should also be removed. Next, it is necessary to take out the ignition coil assembly and the camshaft or camshafts and lifters as well as the housing or housings. Rotate the crankshaft until the piston of the cylinder that needs to be tested is on the TDC of the compression stroke and if replacing all the valve stem seals begin with cylinder No, 1 in the firing order. Insert an adapter in the spark plug hole and attach the other end of an air hose to a source of compressed air. Using compressed air blast the cylinder while seeing to it that the piston is not moving in the wrong direction. This should keep the valves seated to the air pressure; if not the valves may need to be ground. If compressed air cannot be used then place the piston slightly before TDC, thread a nylon rope into the combustion chamber, turn the crankshaft until one feels slight resistance. Push shop rag into other cylinder head holes, use valve spring compressor to compress the spring and take off the keepers. When the retainer and the valve spring have been taken off, look for signs of wear of the valve stem. Apply pressure to the air to maintain the valve shut; undo the tape or rubber band if used. Engine oil should then be applied on the valve stem, a new guide seal fitted and placements of the spring the of the valve done properly. Place the valve spring retainer again, and by compressing the valve spring, place the keepers rightly in position. However, turn off the air hose, retract the adapter, replace the camshaft(s), lifters and housing(s), as well as spark plug(s) and coil assembly then starting the engine and examine there and then for oil leaks or unusual noise.

Thread an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from a compressed air source.

The crankshaft should be turned until the piston is at top dead center on the compression stroke, working on one cylinder at a time following the firing order.

A length of nylon rope can be used to prevent the valves from falling into the cylinder if compressed air isn't available.

After starting the engine, check for oil leaks and unusual sounds.