GM 19416896 STUD KIT,FRT LWR CONT ARM BALL

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Use a large prybar to check for any movement in the balljoint by attempting to push it up and prying it down between the steering knuckle and control arm.

To inspect and potentially replace a balljoint, start by applying the parking brake and blocking the rear wheels to prevent the vehicle from rolling. Then, raise the front of the vehicle and securely support it on jackstands. Visually inspect the rubber seal of the balljoint for any damage, deterioration, or leaking grease. If any of these issues are present, the balljoint should be replaced. Next, use a large prybar to check for any movement in the balljoint by attempting to push it up and prying it down between the steering knuckle and control arm. If any movement is felt or seen during these checks, it indicates a worn-out balljoint. Additionally, have an assistant grasp the tire at the top and bottom and move the top of the tire in and out while touching the balljoint stud nut. If any looseness is felt, suspect a worn-out balljoint stud or a widened hole in the steering knuckle boss. In the case of a widened hole, both the balljoint and the steering knuckle should be replaced. Finally, separate the control arm from the steering knuckle and try to twist the stud in the socket using your fingers. If the stud turns, it is necessary to replace the balljoint.

To check the upper balljoint, loosen the wheel lug nuts, raise the front of the vehicle, and support it securely on jackstands. Apply the parking brake and remove the wheel. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm and raise it slightly. Using a large screwdriver or pry bar, pry up on the upper control arm and watch for movement at the balljoint. Any movement indicates a worn balljoint. Grasp the steering knuckle and attempt to move the top of it in-and-out. If any play is felt, the balljoint will have to be replaced. For the lower balljoint, raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands, and remove the wheels. Support the weight of the suspension with a jack. Measure the distance between the tip of the balljoint stud and the tip of the grease fitting below the balljoint or between the lower surface of the control arm and the top of the balljoint. Lower the jack to allow the suspension to hang free and repeat the measurement. If the difference between the two measurements exceeds 3/32-inch, the balljoint is worn and must be replaced. To replace, raise the vehicle, support it securely on jackstands, and remove the front wheel. For 2WD models, remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way. Remove the cotter key from the ball joint and back off the nut two turns. Place a jack or jackstand under the lower control arm. The jack or jackstand must remain under the control arm during removal and installation of the ball joint to hold the spring and control arm in position. Separate the balljoint from the steering knuckle using a balljoint separator. The use of a "picklefork" type balljoint separator may tear the balljoint boot. To remove the upper balljoint from the control arm, drill out the rivets, remove the balljoint, and clean the control arm. Install the new upper balljoint against the mating surface of the control arm and secure it with the supplied nuts and bolts. For the lower balljoint on 2WD models, remove the control arm and take it to an automotive machine shop to have the balljoint pressed out and a new one pressed in. Inspect the tapered holes in the steering knuckle, removing any accumulated dirt. If out-of-roundness, deformation, or other damage is noted, the knuckle must be replaced. Reconnect the balljoints to the steering knuckle and tighten the nuts to the specified torque. If the cotter key does not lineup with the opening in the castellated nut, tighten the nut just enough to allow installation of the cotter pin. Install the grease fittings and lubricate the new balljoints. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle. The front end alignment should be checked by a dealer or alignment shop. The procedure for replacing an upper balljoint on a 4WD model is similar to that described for 2WD models. The procedure for replacing a lower balljoint on 4WD models includes raising the vehicle and supporting it securely on jackstands, removing the wheel, and removing the front splash shield bolts. Pivot the shield out of the way to gain access to the tie-rod end. Disconnect the tie-rod from the relay rod. Remove the drive axle and center punch the bottom of each rivet. Using a 1/8-inch drill bit, drill a guide hole 1/2-inch deep into the rivet heads. Using a 5/16-inch drill bit, drill the rivet heads off. Knock the rivets out with a hammer and punch. Remove the balljoint stud cotter pin. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack. Loosen the balljoint nut a couple of turns. Back off the torsion bar adjusting arm bolt to reduce the tension on the bar. Don't remove the bolt completely. Separate the knuckle from the balljoint with a two-jaw puller or a "picklefork". Remove the nut and separate the balljoint from the lower control arm. Install the new balljoint to the control arm. Install the nuts and bolts and tighten them to the specified torque. Raise the lower control arm with a floor jack and insert the balljoint stud into the steering knuckle. Lower the jack until the balljoint stud seats in the hole, then install the nut and tighten it to the specified torque. Install a new cotter pin and bend the ends of the pin against the nut. Load the torsion bar, install the drive axle assembly, and connect the inner tie-rod end to the relay rod. Install the tie-rod end nut and tighten it to the specified torque. Install the front splash shield and tighten the splash shield bolts securely. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Lower the vehicle and tighten the wheel lug nuts to the specified torque.