For instance, if replacement is necessary, normally said to be necessary when the wheel cylinders fluid leakage or they are sticky, then it is preferable that the wheel cylinders be replaced in sets and not rebuilt. First, secure the front wheels to that the vehicle does not move with the handbrakes, next slackening the bolts of the rear wheel, lifting the rear part of the vehicle to the extent that it is safely supported by the jack stand. Then, it is necessary to unbolt the wheel, disengage the parking lock and then also unbolt the brake drum. Following that, take off the
Brake Shoes and wash out all dirt and any other material from around the wheel cylinder. At the rear of the backing plate still, if you have access to a flare-nut wrench, then undo the brake line fitting to the brake line without pulling the brake line away from the cylinder in order to avoid making a kink of it. Open the vehicle and also take off the wheel cylinder bleeder screw with its cap, also withdraw the wheel cylinder mounting bolts and come out the wheel cylinder from the backing plate. In installation the new wheel cylinder is fitted in position, the brake line fitting should be only finger tight then the wheel cylinder mounting bolts are tightened to the required torque. Vinyl & rubber brake line fitting should be securely tightened followed by the installation of the bleeder screw and cap. After that, should replace the brake shoes and then cover it with the brake drum that is located on the hub flange of the car and the wheel and lug nuts of the car should be placed back again. Last but not the least, the brake system is to be bled, the vehicle is to be lowered down and the lug nuts are to be tightened according to the prescribed torque while prior to the test drive it is essential to ensure that the brakes are functioning properly or not before going into traffic.