Disconnect the cable from the negative terminal of the battery. Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, drain the engine oil, and remove the oil filler. Remove the oil pan skid plate, if equipped. Unbolt the steering rack and allow it to hang out of the way. On 4WD vehicles, remove the front differential carrier. Remove the transmission bell housing covers from the rear of the engine block. Remove the crossmember. Remove the lower transmission-to-engine bolt(s). These bolts vary depending on the model of transmission used but all screw into the oil pan. Disconnect the wiring from the engine oil level sensor. Disconnect the wiring harness retainers from the oil pan. Disconnect the oil cooler lines from the oil pan on models with automatic transmissions. Remove all the oil pan bolts, then lower the pan from the engine. The pan will probably stick to the engine, so strike the pan with a rubber mallet until it breaks the gasket seal. Drill out the rivets securing the oil pan gasket to the oil pan and remove the old gasket. Wash out the oil pan with solvent. Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of the oil pan and engine block of old gasket material and sealant. Wipe the gasket surfaces clean with a rag soaked in brake system cleaner. Apply a 3/16-inch wide, one-inch long bead of ATV sealant to the corners of the block where the front cover and the rear cover meet the engine block. The gasket tabs protrude at these points and must have sealant around them. Attach the new gasket to the pan, install the pan, and tighten the bolts finger-tight. Be sure the oil gallery passages in the pan and the gasket are aligned properly. Install all of the oil pan mounting bolts snugly. Install the lower transmission mounting bolts snugly. Tighten the oil pan bolts and the transmission bolts to the correct torque specifications. The remainder of installation is the reverse of removal. Add the proper type and quantity of oil, start the engine, and check for leaks before placing the vehicle back in service.