GM 12557558 Pan,Oil

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To begin the removal process, disconnect the negative battery cable and raise the vehicle, securely supporting it on jackstands. Drain the engine oil and remove the oil filter. Unbolt the crossover pipe at the exhaust manifolds and, if applicable, remove the strut rods at the bellhousing cover and the strut rod brackets at the front engine mounts. Additionally, disconnect the engine oil cooler or transmission cooler lines from the oil pan if needed. Remove the lower bellhousing cover and the starter if clearance requires it. For four-wheel drive vehicles, take further steps by removing the skid plate and front driveshaft, as well as certain bolts and nuts of the front driveaxle. Remove the front axle shaft by rotating the drive axle forward after turning the wheels leftward. In the case of a big block VS engine, disconnect the oil pressure gauge line from the block's side, remove the distributor cap to prevent breakage, and unbolt the fan shroud and move it back over the fan, taking care to protect the radiator fins with cardboard if clearance is tight. Remove the engine mount through-bolts and lift the engine approximately three inches using an engine hoist, ensuring the oil pump pickup isn't damaged, the distributor isn't hitting the firewall, and the fan isn't hitting the radiator. Place wood blocks between the crossmember and engine block to maintain the raised position and then remove the engine hoist. For all engines, turn the crankshaft until the timing mark on the vibration damper is at the bottom. Proceed by removing the oil pan bolts and reinforcements, tilting the pan's rear down and working it away from the crankshaft throws, oil pump pick-up, and front cross-member. For the installation, utilize a scraper to eliminate old gasket material and sealant from the pan and block, cleaning the sealing surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone while ensuring clean bolt holes in the block. Check the oil pan flange for distortion, particularly around the bolt holes, and rectify it if necessary. Remove old rubber seals from the rear main bearing cap and timing chain cover, clean the grooves, install new seals (excluding engines with one-piece rubber gaskets), use RTV sealant or gasket adhesive to secure the new seals, and apply a bead of RTV sealant to block-to-seal junctions. Attach new side gaskets to the oil pan with the same sealant. If applicable, inspect the one-piece rubber gasket and replace it if damaged. Apply RTV silicone to the four corners of the pan gasket, ensuring the sealant extends one inch in each direction from each corner, and attach the gasket to the oil pan. Carefully position the pan against the block, install the bolts/nuts finger-tight (including reinforcement strips, if used), and confirm the seals and gaskets haven't shifted before tightening the bolts/nuts to specified torque in three steps, starting at the center of the pan and working outward in a spiral pattern. Finally, follow the reverse steps of the removal process, remembering to refill the engine with oil before starting it.

Clearance should ideally be flush, but up to 0.011 inches is allowable.

If the clearance is okay, tighten the pan bolts/studs in sequence to the torque specifications.

You should wash out the oil pan with solvent.

You should remove the crossmember.