Genuine Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal

Engine Valve Seal
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2 Valve Stem Oil Seals found

  • Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal - 96059936
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    Chevrolet Metro Seal,Valve Stem Oil

    Part Number: 96059936
    $2.84 MSRP: $17.19
    You Save: $14.35 (84%)
    Ships in 1-2 Business Days
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: SEAL, Engine Valve; Valve Seal
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by GM's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1989-2001 Chevrolet Metro | 2 DOOR, 4 DOOR, CONVERTIBLE, LSI 2 DOOR, LSI 4 DOOR, LSI CONVERTIBLE, XFI 2 DOOR | 3 Cyl 1.0L, 4 Cyl 1.3L
  • Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal - 91174039
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    Product Specifications
    • Other Name: SEAL, Engine Valve; Valve Seal
    • Replaces: 96051426
    • Warranty: This genuine part is guaranteed by GM's factory warranty.
    Fits the following Vehicles:
    • 1992-1997 Chevrolet Metro | 2 DOOR, 4 DOOR | 3 Cyl 1.0L, 4 Cyl 1.3L

Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal

Each OEM Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal we offer is competitively priced and comes with the assurance of the manufacturer's warranty for the part. Furthermore, we guarantee the speedy delivery of your orders right to your doorstep. Our hassle-free return policy is also in place for your peace of mind.

Chevrolet Metro Valve Stem Oil Seal Parts Questions & Experts Answers

  • Q: Can broken Rocker Shaft Spring Kit and Valve Stem Oil Seal be replaced without removing the cylinder head on Chevrolet Metro?
    A: Two special tools and compressed air are needed to fix broken valve springs and valve stem seal issues directly under the Cylinder Head. First, take off the Camshaft and lifters. Pull out the spark plug from the cylinder with the bad part, and remove all spark plugs if you plan to change all valve stem seals. Begin your work by starting with cylinder one and fix each piece one at a time. Put an adapter into the spark plug hole and connect an air hose from your compressed air machine. Simply use the compressed air on the cylinder while watching how the crankshaft moves. The pressure creates the strength to keep the valve parts closed, but if any leaks happen, they'll affect how the tops and sockets fit together. When there's no compressed air available, put the piston right before Top Dead Center, then use a piece of nylon rope to fill the combustion chamber. Leave a string of rope hanging out so you can pull it out easily. Place shredded cloth in the valve hole above the cylinder head to stop parts from falling inside. With a valve spring compressor tool, expand the spring and pull out its keepers. Removing the guide seal comes after taking out both the spring retainer and valve spring. The most severe damage to valves happens when air pressure alone can't keep the valve closed: the valve face or seat needs repair, and that can only be done by taking apart the cylinder head for more thorough repair. Put a rubber band or tape on the valve stem to keep it from getting into the combustion chamber, and take out the air pressure. Check if the valve stem is damaged and still moves well inside the guide, without feeling stuck. Open the valve by releasing the air pressure, put back rubber band or tape, and you're set. Drench the valve stem in engine oil, slot in a new guide seal, then add the new spring and the retainer over it. Squeeze the valve spring, then put the keepers in place. Use grease if you need to hold them steady. First, take the air pressure off the spring tool, and make sure the keepers stay in place. Then, remove both air hose ends and the adapter off the tool. Put back all Rocker Arms, shafts, lifters, and camshaft. Add the spark plugs and wires before installing the valve cover. Before you proceed, turn on the engine and look for oil dripping and any odd noises coming from the valve cover region.

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