Ensure that the speed selector lever is in 'N' or 'P' for automatic transaxle or that the clutch pedal is depressed for manual transaxle if the starter motor does not rotate when operated. Verify that the battery is charged and all cables, at both the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are secure. If the motor can be heard spinning but the engine isn't cranked, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is likely slipping, requiring removal and dismantling. If the starter motor doesn't operate, but a loud 'click' is heard from the solenoid plunger, the fault lies in the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself. In cases where the solenoid plunger doesn't move, the solenoid may be defective or the solenoid circuit open. You can check the solenoid by connecting a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the 'S' terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor operates, the fault lies in the ignition or neutral start switches or their interconnecting wiring. If it doesn't, the starter/solenoid assembly should be removed for testing and repair. If the engine cranks at an unusually slow speed, check the battery charge and terminal connections, oil grade, and ensure no mechanical fault within the power unit. Run the engine to normal operating temperature, disconnect the battery feed wire to the distributor cap to prevent engine firing during cranking, then connect a voltmeter positive lead to the starter motor terminal of the solenoid and the negative lead to ground. Ignite the switch, take the voltmeter readings once steady, but don't let the starter motor turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more with normal cranking speed indicates a good condition, while the same voltage but slow cranking speed denotes a faulty motor. A reading of less than 9 volts with slow cranking speed suggests the solenoid contacts are likely at fault and should be replaced.
