Chevrolet 1988718 Starter Motor, Remanufactured

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Remove the bolts securing the plastic starter shield and slide it back.

Connect the ground wire to the grounded brush and the field lead wire to the insulated brush.

Roller-type clutches should not be disassembled and are serviced as complete units.

Check the battery charge and terminal connections, oil grade, and ensure no mechanical fault within the power unit.

It may indicate burned solenoid contacts, a bad starter motor, discharged battery, or a bad connection.

Detach the cable from the negative terminal of the battery and ensure the lockout feature is turned off if applicable.

To remove and install the starter, start by disconnecting the ground cable from the battery. Then, raise the vehicle and support it with jack stands. Next, disconnect the leads at the starter solenoid, marking each with coded tape for easy identification later. Temporarily refit the securing nuts to the terminals. Remove the bolts securing the plastic starter shield and slide it back to expose the starter mounting bolts. Take out the starter to engine brace and then remove the two starter motor mounting bolts. Finally, remove the starter. To reinstall, follow the reverse order of removal, tightening the mount bolts first to the specified torque and then tightening the front bracket bolt and nut. Make sure to replace any shims that were removed for proper alignment. Refit the wires to the solenoid terminals using the identification coding.

Slide the two-section thrust collar off the armature shaft to expose the snap-ring. Extract the snap-ring from its shaft groove and slide the stop/retainer and overrunning clutch assembly from the armature shaft.

Roller-type clutches should not be disassembled and are serviced as complete units.

The solenoid may be defective or the solenoid circuit open.

Ensure that the speed selector lever is in 'N' or 'P' for automatic transaxle or that the clutch pedal is depressed for manual transaxle if the starter motor does not rotate when operated. Verify that the battery is charged and all cables, at both the battery and starter solenoid terminals, are secure. If the motor can be heard spinning but the engine isn't cranked, the overrunning clutch in the starter motor is likely slipping, requiring removal and dismantling. If the starter motor doesn't operate, but a loud 'click' is heard from the solenoid plunger, the fault lies in the main solenoid contacts or the starter motor itself. In cases where the solenoid plunger doesn't move, the solenoid may be defective or the solenoid circuit open. You can check the solenoid by connecting a jumper lead between the battery (+) and the 'S' terminal on the solenoid. If the starter motor operates, the fault lies in the ignition or neutral start switches or their interconnecting wiring. If it doesn't, the starter/solenoid assembly should be removed for testing and repair. If the engine cranks at an unusually slow speed, check the battery charge and terminal connections, oil grade, and ensure no mechanical fault within the power unit. Run the engine to normal operating temperature, disconnect the battery feed wire to the distributor cap to prevent engine firing during cranking, then connect a voltmeter positive lead to the starter motor terminal of the solenoid and the negative lead to ground. Ignite the switch, take the voltmeter readings once steady, but don't let the starter motor turn for more than 30 seconds at a time. A reading of 9 volts or more with normal cranking speed indicates a good condition, while the same voltage but slow cranking speed denotes a faulty motor. A reading of less than 9 volts with slow cranking speed suggests the solenoid contacts are likely at fault and should be replaced.

After installing the first set of brushes, repeat the same operations for the second set of brushes.

To install the brush assembly to the field frame, first, install the brushes to their holders and then assemble the insulated and grounded brush holders together with the V-spring and locate the unit on its support pin. Push the holders and spring to the bottom of the support and rotate the spring to engage the V in the support slot. Connect the ground wire to the grounded brush and the field lead wire to the insulated brush. Repeat the operations for the second set of brushes. Smear silicone oil onto the drive end of the armature shaft and slide the clutch assembly (pinion to the front) onto the shaft, followed by sliding the pinion stop/retainer onto the shaft with its open end facing away from the pinion. Stand the armature vertically on a piece of wood, position the snap-ring on the end of the shaft, and using a hammer and a piece of hardwood, drive the snap-ring onto the shaft. Slide the snap-ring down the shaft until it drops into its groove. Install the thrust collar on the shaft so that the shoulder is next to the snap-ring and use two pairs of pliers to squeeze the thrust collar and stop/retainer together until the snap-ring fully enters the retainer. Lubricate the drive housing bush with silicone oil and ensure that the thrust collar is in position against the snap-ring. Slide the armature and clutch assembly into the drive housing so that the shift lever engages with the clutch. Position the field frame over the armature and apply sealing compound between the frame and the solenoid case, then position the field frame against the drive housing, taking care not to damage the brushes. Lubricate the bush in the commutator end frame using silicone oil, place the leather brake washer on the armature shaft, and slide the commutator end frame onto the shaft. Reconnect the field coil connectors to the MOTOR terminal of the solenoid. To check the pinion clearance, connect a battery between the solenoid S terminal and ground and at the same time fix a heavy connecting cable between the MOTOR terminal and ground (to prevent any possibility of the starter motor rotating). As the solenoid is energized, it will push the pinion forward into its normal cranking position and retain it there. With the fingers, push the pinion away from the stop/retainer to eliminate any slack and then check the clearance between the face of the pinion and the face of stop/retainer using a feeler gauge. The clearance should be between 0.010 and 0.140 inches to ensure correct engagement of the pinion with the flywheel (or driveplate-automatic transaxle) ring-gear. If the clearance is incorrect, the starter will have to be dismantled again, and any worn or distorted components renewed, as no adjustment is provided for.