GM 23191340 Front Wheel Drive Shaft Assembly (Rh Proc)

Power is transmitted from the transaxle to the wheels through a pair of axle shafts. The inner end of each axle shaft is connected to the transaxle, directly splined to the differential side gears. The outer ends of the axle shafts are splined to the axle hubs and locked in place by a large nut. The inner ends of the axle shafts are equipped with sliding constant velocity joints, which are capable of both angular and axial motion. Each inner joint assembly consists of a tripod bearing and a joint tulip (housing) in which the joint is free to slide in-and-out as the axle shaft moves up-and-down with the wheel. The joints can be disassembled and cleaned in the event of a boot failure, but if any parts are damaged, the joints must be replaced as a unit. Each outer joint, which consists of ball bearings running between an inner race and an outer race (housing), is capable of angular but not axial movement. The boots should be inspected periodically for damage and leaking lubricant. Torn CV joint boots must be replaced immediately or the joints can be damaged. Boot replacement involves removal of the axle shaft. Note: Some auto parts stores carry "split" type replacement boots, which can be installed without removing the axle shaft from the vehicle. This is a convenient alternative; however, the axle shaft should be removed and the CV Joint disassembled and cleaned to ensure the joint is free from contaminants such as moisture and dirt which will accelerate CV Joint wear. The most common symptoms of worn or damaged CV joints, besides lubricant leaks, are a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating after coasting, and vibration at highway speeds. To check for wear in the CV joints and axle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in both directions while holding the CV joint housings; feeling for play indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also check the axle shafts for cracks, dents, and distortion.

Power is transmitted from the transaxle to the wheels through a pair of axle shafts. The inner end of each axle shaft is connected to the transaxle, directly splined to the differential side gears. The outer ends of the axle shafts are splined to the axle hubs and locked in place by a large nut. The inner ends of the axle shafts are equipped with sliding constant velocity joints, which are capable of both angular and axial motion. Each inner joint assembly consists of a tripod bearing and a joint tulip (housing) in which the joint is free to slide in-and-out as the axle shaft moves up-and-down with the wheel. The joints can be disassembled and cleaned in the event of a boot failure, but if any parts are damaged, the joints must be replaced as a unit. Each outer joint, which consists of ball bearings running between an inner race and an outer race (housing), is capable of angular but not axial movement. The boots should be inspected periodically for damage and leaking lubricant. Torn CV joint boots must be replaced immediately or the joints can be damaged. Boot replacement involves removal of the axle shaft. Note: Some auto parts stores carry "split" type replacement boots, which can be installed without removing the axle shaft from the vehicle. This is a convenient alternative; however, the axle shaft should be removed and the CV Joint disassembled and cleaned to ensure the joint is free from contaminants such as moisture and dirt which will accelerate CV Joint wear. The most common symptoms of worn or damaged CV joints, besides lubricant leaks, are a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating after coasting, and vibration at highway speeds. To check for wear in the CV joints and axle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in both directions while holding the CV joint housings; feeling for play indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also check the axle shafts for cracks, dents, and distortion.

Start by loosening the front wheel lug nuts and raising the vehicle on jackstands. Remove the wheel and then use a large socket and breaker bar to remove the driveaxle/hub nut. If necessary, drain the transaxle lubricant. Disconnect the tie-rod end and stabilizer link from the steering knuckle. Separate the steering knuckle from the strut. Tap the end of the driveaxle with a soft-faced hammer to loosen it from the hub splines. Pull out on the steering knuckle to detach the driveaxle from the hub and suspend the outer end of the driveaxle. Check for lubricant leakage around the differential seal. Use a pry bar to carefully pry the inner joint from the transaxle. Remove the driveaxle assembly, being careful not to overextend the inner joint or damage the axleshaft boots. If needed, secure the hub with a large bolt and washers.

To install the driveaxle, apply multi-purpose grease around the splines of the joints. Hold the driveaxle straight out and push it in sharply to seat the driveaxle set-ring. Check that the set-ring is properly seated by attempting to pull the inner CV joint housing out of the transaxle by hand. Clean the driveaxle outer CV joint threads and coat the splines with multi-purpose grease. Guide the driveaxle into the hub splines and install the new driveaxle/hub nut. Reconnect the steering knuckle and tie rod end, then tighten the suspension fasteners. Tighten the driveaxle/hub nut to the specified torque. Install the wheel and lug nuts, then lower the vehicle. Finally, tighten the wheel lug nuts to the torque and add transaxle lubricant if necessary.