GM 23191340 Front Wheel Drive Shaft Assembly (Rh Proc)

One can start by loosening the front wheel lug nuts and raising the vehicle on jackstands in order to remove the axle shaft. Then, use a large socket and breaker bar to remove the axle shaft/hub nut. The transaxle lubricant may be drained if necessary. Disconnect the tie-rod end and stabilizer link from the steering knuckle. Separate the steering knuckle from the strut. To loosen it from the hub splines, tap at the end of the axle shaft with a soft-faced hammer. Pull out on the steering knuckle in order to detach it from hub and suspend outer end of axle shaft. Check for lubricant leakage around differential seal. Use a pry bar to carefully pry inner joint from the transaxle. Finally, remove axle shaft assembly being careful not to overextend inner joint or damage axleshaft boots. If needed secure hub with a large bolt and washers. Multi-purpose grease must be put around splines of joints when installing axle shaft. Hold out straightly on axle shaft and push it sharply inward to seat axle shaft set ring. To ensure that set ring is properly seated attempt pulling out inner CV joint housing out of transaxle by hand. Clean threads of Axleshaft outer CV joint, and then apply multi-purpose grease onto splines. Guide axle shaft into hub splines then installed new driveshaft/hub nut. Renew suspension fasteners then reconnecting steering knuckle and tie rod end. Axle shaft/hub nut should be tightened according to given torque. Install wheel and lug nuts, then lower vehicle. Finally tighten wheel lug nuts to torque value provided, if necessary add transmission fluid.

Power is transmitted from the transaxle to the wheels through a pair of axle shafts. The inner end of each axle shaft is connected to the transaxle, directly splined to the differential side gears. The outer ends of the axle shafts are splined to the axle hubs and locked in place by a large nut. The inner ends of the axle shafts are equipped with sliding constant velocity joints, which are capable of both angular and axial motion. Each inner joint assembly consists of a tripod bearing and a joint tulip (housing) in which the joint is free to slide in-and-out as the axle shaft moves up-and-down with the wheel. The joints can be disassembled and cleaned in the event of a boot failure, but if any parts are damaged, the joints must be replaced as a unit. Each outer joint, which consists of ball bearings running between an inner race and an outer race (housing), is capable of angular but not axial movement. The boots should be inspected periodically for damage and leaking lubricant. Torn CV joint boots must be replaced immediately or the joints can be damaged. Boot replacement involves removal of the axle shaft. Note: Some auto parts stores carry "split" type replacement boots, which can be installed without removing the axle shaft from the vehicle. This is a convenient alternative; however, the axle shaft should be removed and the CV Joint disassembled and cleaned to ensure the joint is free from contaminants such as moisture and dirt which will accelerate CV Joint wear. The most common symptoms of worn or damaged CV joints, besides lubricant leaks, are a clicking noise in turns, a clunk when accelerating after coasting, and vibration at highway speeds. To check for wear in the CV joints and axle shafts, grasp each axle (one at a time) and rotate it in both directions while holding the CV joint housings; feeling for play indicating worn splines or sloppy CV joints. Also check the axle shafts for cracks, dents, and distortion.