Prior to removing the piston and connecting rod assemblies, the cylinder head, oil pan, and oil pickup must be taken off. First, use your fingernail to check for a ridge at the upper limit of ring travel, which is about 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder. If ridges caused by carbon deposits or cylinder wear are present, they must be completely removed with a special tool according to the manufacturer's instructions, as failure to do so may result in piston breakage. After removing the cylinder ridges, turn the engine upside down so the crankshaft is facing up. Before removing the connecting rods, check the endplay with feeler gauges by sliding them between the first connecting rod and the crankshaft throw until the play is eliminated; the endplay measurement corresponds to the thickness of the feeler gauge(s). If the endplay exceeds the service limit, new connecting rods will be necessary. If new rods or a new crankshaft are installed, the endplay may fall below the specified minimum, requiring machining of the rods, so consult an automotive machine shop if needed. Check the connecting rods and caps for identification marks; if they are not marked, use a small center punch to create indentations on each rod and cap according to their associated cylinder. Loosen each connecting rod cap nut a quarter turn at a time until they can be removed by hand, then take off the number one connecting rod cap and bearing insert, ensuring the bearing insert does not drop out. To protect the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall during piston removal, slip a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt. Remove the bearing insert and push the connecting rod/piston assembly out through the top of the engine using a wooden hammer handle on the upper bearing surface of the connecting rod; if resistance is encountered, verify that all ridges have been removed from the cylinder. Repeat this process for the remaining cylinders. After removal, reassemble the connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective rods and install the cap nuts finger-tight, leaving the old bearing inserts in place until reassembly to prevent accidental nicks or gouges on the connecting rod bearing surfaces.