Lift up your car so the
Control Arm can swing freely. Then pull off the wheel with the tire still attached. First disconnect the height sensor link from the right control arm either by hand or by removing the parking brake cable retaining clip from the left control arm. Separate the rear stabilizer bar from its bracket on the knuckle. Put stand J-23028-01 or something similar under the
Control Arm Bushings for support. Make sure it's bolted to a stable jack stand to keep everyone safe. Before removing the control arm bolts, lift up the jack to ease spring pressure. To keep ourselves safe, fit a chain around the spring and control arm. In a controlled manner, take out the bolts, nuts, and washers from the back of the control arm. Carefully move the jack to reduce tension on the front control arm pivot bolt, and remove that bolt, nut, and washer afterwards. Before you touch any parts, get rid of compression on the spring and slowly move the jack downward so the control arm can go down. Undo the safety chain when there's no compression. Check and replace the spring insulators if they are cut or damaged, or if you've driven your vehicle more than 50,000 miles. Hook the upper spring insulation onto the spring, place the lower insulator and spring within the vehicle, then use tool J-23028-01 or a similar tool to guide and lift the control arm into position. Insert the jack right until you can add the control arm pivot bolt nuts, then join the rear stabilizer to the knuckle with the link rod. Reconnect the control arm height sensor to the right arm and the parking brake cable clip to the left arm, put your wheels and tires back, then bring the car down again. While the car stands on its wheels, you need to use at least 80 ft Lbs (110 kilopond meters) of force to get the control arm nuts tight. Meanwhile, the stabilizer bar link bolt requires 13 ft Lbs (17 Newton meters).