Damaged or worn engine mounts rarely get much consideration; even so, when they are damaged or have worn, it is crucial to replace them swiftly to avoid wear of shaking at driveline parts. To check the mounts, lift the engine a little off the mounts, take the load off them and make sure that the car is jacked up and safely standing on jack stands. If there is no special support fixture available place a jack under the engine oil pan and put a large piece of wood between the jack and the engine, just lifting the engine off the mounts slightly. Servicing any part of the vehicle should not be done when the vehicle is merely raised by a jack as this is dangerous as part of the body is left under the engine. Look closely at the mounts for indications of cracked, hard rubber or the fact that the metal plates have separated and use a large screwdriver or pry bar to check to see if there is any play between the mount plates and the engine or frame; if there is, lower the engine and tighten of the mount fasteners. Rubber preservative can help cure this problem and one can apply it to the product in order slow the rate of deterioration. As to the replacement of the part, you have to first unfasten the negative battery cable and then lose the bolt of the upper torque strut bracket, in addition, turn the lockout feature of the Theftlock audio system, if present. The torque strut-to-body mount bolts and the torque strut must be unbolted and then the new torque strut installed before tightening the bolts before the negative battery cabel is reattached. For the lower mount, unconnect the negative battery terminal, undo the nuts around the engine mount below the frame mounting bracket, lift the engine from the mount, and undo the nuts that hold the mount to the bracket so as to take out the mount out of the vehicle. Engines are levers that can be installed in the reverse sequence of their removal and this is done carefully by tightening all the nuts before reconnecting the negative battery cable.