Front and rear brake flexible hoses which connect the steel brake lines to the brake assemblies must be checked about every six months and this can be done accurately when the vehicle is resting on jackstands and (List down the following checks to be done on the flexible hoses,) Use a light and a mirror and in case the hose is damaged, it should be replaced with a new one. For the front brake hose, unscrew the brake line from the hose fitting with the assistance of a back up wrench, then remove the U-clip and the hose from the bracket,, At the caliper end, washers were removed from both the fitting block and the bolt and the hose as well as the copper gaskets were also removed. When replacing the new hose, use new copper gaskets, apply clean brake fluid to the bolt threads and assure that the fitting flange comes in contact with the caliper before applying the recommended torque. Slide the female fitting to the hose bracket with the hose lying flat and secure it with the U-clip, connect and tighten the brake line to the female hose fitting as required. After installation, take the time to carefully examine the hose and look for kinks and ensure that the hose is in no way touching any of the suspension parts and this is done by swerving the wheels to the left and then to the right. For the rear brake hose, the two steel brake lines connected to the junction block on the rear axle must be undone, the hose fixed at the female end has to be unscrewed, besides, the U-clip has to be removed. Mark the relative position of the junction block for assembly on the axle and saddle, then unbolt it and take out the hose. During installation you have to mate the steel line fittings into the junction block, then fasten the block to the axle tightening all nuts and bolts to the required torque. Place the female end of hose in the frame bracket using the U clip and the male steel line fitting in position, there should be no bending. Ensure the frame bracket is properly fitted and re-tighten if loose, then fill up the master cylinder reservoirs then bleed the clutch system. Currently, steel lines are used and when replacing these it is recommended that only double-walled steel tubing be used in the design in place of copper due to its fatigue and corrosion nature. Auto parts stores provide various brake line lengths ready made that can be bend by hand or with a tubing bender if not easily bendable. In case prefabricated lengths are not available get the recommended steel tubing and fittings, measure the old line for length and cut the new tubing accordingly but ½" extra for flaring purposes. Remove one of the ends of the cut tubing and put the fittings on the tubing; use the ISO flaring tool to flare the end to match the shape of the old line. The local auto parts stores can always do a tube flaring and bending and also guarantee a minimum of ¾ clearance from brake line to other moving parts on the car before installing.