To start with, for the 1996 and earlier models, one has to identify the position of the strut mount cover before removing the nuts and the cover and of should be done having the vehicle on the ground and out of jack and suspension. After that, one must take off the strut shaft nut by using the tool that clamps up from underneath while you put a Torx bit into the shaft so that it does not rotate. Remove the strut mount bushing and the upper strut bumper; may hammer the strut shaft into the cartridge using pipe. Loosen this nut with the aid of a special tool then pull out this strut cartridge. Whether the old cartridge had a leak or not, if it had damper fluid, please use the suction pump to drain it and dispose it off. Place the replacement strut cartridge there and fasten the nut to the torque specified and then put on the bumper. Screw in the strut shaft nut just enough to get a hold of it with locking pliers, lift the shaft if necessary, then remove the nut and put in the bushing. Last of all engage and tighten both the strut shaft and cover nuts to the recommended torque. For 1997 and later models, open the hood and then undo the three top strut to body bolts and then undo the wheel center bolts, then jack up the front and support the rear on jackstands and block the front wheels. Take off the wheel and make necessary identification of the relationship between the strut and the steering knuckle. The nuts of the strut-to-knuckle bolts should be undone, and the bolts themselves should be knocked out using a brass punch and a hammer, and the strut should be then separated from the steering knuckle, but, one must be very keen not to over-flex the inner CV joint or stretch the brake hose. With the other hand support the strut and spring assembly, undo the upper strut mounting nuts and bolt and take out the assembly. Look for leakage from the strut body area, ascertain if the body has any damages or cracks and examine the coil spring for chips or cracks. If they are worn or damaged in some way, replace the strut or the coil spring as the case may be. Place the spring/strut in a vise by installing the coil spring compressor tools and force the spring until that there is no tension felt near the upper mounting. Place a Torx socket on the end of the strut piston rod and use a box wrench to drive off the thrust bearing retaining nut then remove the top mounting, thrust bearing, upper spring seat, spring boot and finally the bump stop. If a new spring is being put in, carefully slip the original spring from the compressor when it is in compression; if retaining the spring, leave it in compression. The strut can be replaced by moving the spring from the old strut to the new one, reinstalling the upper components and tightening the bearing retainer nut to the stipulated torque. With the lower spring fitted in its seat set the compressor to about half of its capacity then move it side to side before withdrawing the tools. Align the strut assembly to the fender well, and pass the upper mount studs through the holes of the shock tower then tighten the nuts to hold the strut in place. Use the previously created marks and slide the steering knuckle into the strut flange then install the two bolts and tighten nuts to above mentioned torque. Last of all, secure the wheel by placing the wheel back, and turn the wheel lug nuts and the upper mounting nuts as requested by the torque. To be more precise and convenient it is better to drive the vehicle to the dealer service department or alignment shop to check and restore the front wheel alignment if required.