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Oldsmobile Cutlass Parts

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    The best site to buy Oldsmobile Cutlass genuine parts for years has been We're the best online parts and accessory store for your Oldsmobile Cutlass. offers a large parts and accessory inventory to cover all your vehicle's repairs. Feel free to browse through our genuine Oldsmobile Cutlass parts and accessory catalog to find all your vehicle's needs.

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    All of our Oldsmobile Cutlass auto parts and accessories are expedited directly from verified dealers and backed by the manufacturer's warranty. Our experienced team ensures the orders are packed to provide quick transit times. The majority of the orders are shipped out within a couple of business days to get the parts out to you as fast as possible.

  • Low Prices

    Our low prices say it all. You can rest assured that you will always receive unbeatable prices on OEM Oldsmobile Cutlass parts. Our giant inventory is beyond compare and has everything you need at an extraordinary value not found anywhere else. Whether you're restoring an old vehicle or upgrading the performance of your vehicle you can count on the quality of our products without hurting your bank account.

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Not many cars have made a name of its own like the Oldsmobile Cutlass has. First seen in 1961, Cutlass body parts rode on GM's new A-body anybody platform, which was offered in three trims. The base F-85 came in two-and four-door sedan styles, as well as a four-door station wagon with Oldsmobile Cutlass auto parts like the aluminum 215 inch 155 horsepower V8 engine. The Cutlass brand name included other vehicle lines under its name, such as the premium Cutlass Supreme model and the Cutlass Ciera, Oldsmobile's best-selling model.

The Oldsmobile Cutlass has been associated with several common issues spanning its climate control system, ignition, and engine gasket integrity. Many owners report the AC compressor intermittently engaging and disengaging, attributed to a malfunctioning clutch relay or a clutch that disengages from overheating. Other signs include unusual sounds, like roars or squeaks, suggesting problems with the clutch or its components, such as a worn bearing. Some units halt their AC functions based on outside temperatures, due to reasons like lost system settings, electrical malfunctions preventing clutch engagement, low Freon, or issues with the HVAC power connections. Addressing the Freon deficit might require manually activating the compressor, bypassing the low-pressure switch. Notably, a '72 Cutlass displayed a decline in AC performance over a journey, attributed to possibilities like the evaporator core freezing, reducing airflow, especially if the old rubber drain on the evaporator housing becomes clogged. System charge imbalances or expansion valve adjustments could be culprits. The variable blower fan speeds highlight the need to inspect and clean resistor terminals, with the specific Cutlass' issue being partly resolved by addressing corroded terminals and recognizing the need for a new condensate drain hose. In late 1990s models, the anti-theft system light may activate intermittently, delaying car starts. To counteract, turning the ignition to "run" and waiting until the light extinguishes might help, although it may require repetition. The root cause could be the ignition key not being correctly recognized or complications with the Pass-lock device, with dealership consultations recommended for proper diagnostics and caution against unwarranted bypassing. Lastly, the 1998 Cutlass with a V6 3.1L engine often faces failing lower intake manifold gaskets, leading to coolant infiltrating the oil system. Signs include persistent coolant depletion, white exhaust smoke, and reduced power. Addressing this involves inspecting parts like the intake manifolds and heads for cracks, determining efficient cleaning methods for coolant-contaminated components, choosing the right replacement gaskets, and debating the use of silicone on these gaskets. Properly tending to this problem can prolong the vehicle's lifespan substantially.

OEM parts are engineered to comply with official Oldsmobile factory standards, guaranteeing easy installation and an impeccable fit. Welcome to our vast selection of competitively-priced genuine Oldsmobile Cutlass parts, including Front End Sheet Metal, Heater, Body Moldings, Sheet Metal, Rear Compartment Hardware, Roof Hardware available online. Each OEM Oldsmobile Cutlass part, like Transmission - Manual, Rear Glass, Seat Parts, Adjuster we provide is backed by a manufacturer's warranty and is subject to a stress-free return policy. Place your order now and receive your parts quickly, shipped directly to your doorstep.

Oldsmobile Cutlass Parts Questions & Answers

  • Q: How to replace the Wheel Seal on Oldsmobile Cutlass?
    A: To remove axleshaft, initially lever out the old oil seal from the tip of the axle casing with a large screwdriver or by using an inner end of axleshaft as a lever. Afterwards put high silicon grease on the oil seal recess and gently tap in place a new seal with its lips turned inside and metal face showing at the end of axle housing. When properly installed, the front surface of this oil seal should be level with the axle casing edge. Lastly, refer to previous section for information on installing axleshaft.
  • Q: How do you remove the Headlight Switch in a Oldsmobile Cutlass?
    A: To remove the lighting switch in a 1974-1977 model, start by disconnecting the negative cable at the battery. Then, remove the steering column cover from the bottom of the dashboard for better access. With the headlights in the 'full on' position, reach up under the dashboard and depress the lighting switch shaft retainer while pulling gently on the lighting knob. Remove the shaft and knob assembly. Next, remove the nut securing the lighting switch to the carrier. For better access, remove the screws securing the instrument cluster carrier and tilt the cluster. Unplug the electrical connector at the switch and remove the switch. To install, reverse the removal steps, ensuring all ground connections are refastened and the switch shaft is fully seated in the switch, with the shaft retainer locking it into place. For the 1978-1980 model, disconnect the negative battery cable and remove the cluster pad assembly. Then, remove the retaining screws and pull away the switch.