Chevrolet 14088765 Engine Crankshaft FLYWHEEL

Remove the transaxle. Remove the bolts attaching the flywheel to the crankshaft flange. Remove the flywheel. Inspect the flywheel for cracks, and inspect the ring gear for burrs or worn teeth. Replace the flywheel if any damage is apparent. Remove burrs with a mill file.

Examine the starter ring gear for broken or chipped teeth; if any are evident, the flywheel must be replaced with a new one. For manual transmission versions, check for scoring on the clutch friction face; light scoring may be dressed out using emery cloth, but deep scoring necessitates replacing the flywheel to prevent clutch damage. In automatic transmission models, inspect the converter securing bolt holes for elongation. If the starter ring gear is worn or the mounting bolt holes are elongated, replace the complete driveplate.

Since it's a manual transmission, you'll have to unbolt the clutch housing and clutch before you can take out the transmission, only then can the flywheel be unbolted from the crankshaft rear flange. To temporarily lock the crankshaft and thus make the work of loosening bolts easier a piece of wood can be inserted between one of the crankshaft throws and the side of the engine block or an alignment tool can be inserted through the flywheel and pushed up against the block. It is recommended that the surfaces to be mated of the flywheel and the crankshaft be cleaned before proceeding to install the flywheel. For the manual transmission type, the flywheel must be to have the dowel hole in the crankshaft matching a dowel hole in the flywheel, for the automatic transmission type, the flywheel has to be installed in a manner that the torque converter attaching pads face the transmission. Tightening of bolts should be done gradually and up to the recommended torque value and where practical it is advisable to use a thread sealant on the bolts. In the same manner, an arrangement of a block of wood or a center punch tool may be placed against the block, so as to prevent the flywheel from rotating during the tightening process.

The back most main oil seal can be replaced without any removal of the oil pan or the crankshaft. Start with all the precautionary notes as laid down and then pull off the transmission. If you're endowed with a manual transmission, then remove the clutch pressure plate and disc too. Next, undo the flywheel/driveplate mounting bolts and swiper it off the crankshaft, using a big screw driver and placing it between the starter ring gears and one of the holes in the drives plate so as to tight it to prevent it from rotating as the bolts are unscrewed. The oil seal can be prairie off using a screwdriver or by applying a pry bar being equally careful not to mar or scratch the crankshaft in the process so as to prevent leakage. Block to seal mating surface must also be free from any contaminants and lightly coated with clean engine oil while on the new seal side. Place the new seal in the block of cylinder start with a blunt that is pressed correctly into position of the outer edge of this seal is correctly hammered and seated in the bore of the cylinder block. Reinstall the flywheel/driveplate and torque the bolt to factory recommended torque. In case the assembly is fitted with a manual gearbox, refit the clutch disc and the pressure plate with the bolts being tightened to the stipulated torque and then refit the transmission.

Take out the six bolts that secure the flywheel to the crankshaft flange, noting that the bolt holes are unevenly spaced to ensure correct installation of the flex plate.

In the case of automatic transmissions, position the flywheel with the torque converter attaching pads facing the transmission.

Yes, manual transmission flywheels are balanced at the factory, and no attempt should be made to balance them.