GM 8643574 Pan, Automatic Transmission Oil

To change the fluid, ensure the engine and transmission are at normal operating temperature, and if the vehicle is raised, keep the transmission level. Begin by safely supporting the vehicle on jackstands. For some models, removing the transmission support crossmember may be necessary to access all pan bolts, so support the transmission with a jack beforehand and be cautious of hot fluid. Place a large pan underneath to catch the fluid, loosen all pan screws, and drain the fluid by pulling down one corner, avoiding prying with a screwdriver to prevent damage. After draining, remove the pan screws and clean the pan with solvent, ensuring it is air dried thoroughly and free of lint. A small amount of metal shavings is normal, but excessive amounts indicate potential transmission damage. Next, remove the filter or strainer retaining bolt, clean the reusable strainer if applicable, and replace filters as needed. Install the new filter or cleaned strainer with a new gasket, tightening screws to specified torque. Reattach the pan with a new gasket, tightening bolts evenly, and replace the crossmember if it was removed. Lower the vehicle and add DEXRON®II fluid through the dipstick tube. Start the engine, let it idle without racing, shift through each lever position while holding the brakes, and check the fluid level in PARK, ensuring it is between the two dimples on the dipstick. After driving to warm up the transmission, check the fluid level again, ensuring it reaches the FULL mark, and drain any excess to prevent aeration and potential damage. Before making any diesel engine linkage adjustments, check and adjust the injection timing as necessary, since engine performance impacts transmission shifting characteristics, and perform these adjustments together. The vacuum valve adjustment for THM-350s on 1979 and later models requires special tools.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then raise the front of the car and support it on jack stands. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container and remove the front exhaust crossover pipe, followed by the flywheel inspection cover and the starter. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the nuts securing the engine mounting bracket to the engine mount, and raise the front of the engine about 3/4-in (19 mm) to provide clearance for the oil pan removal. A spacer can be fabricated from a block of wood, measuring the height of the engine mount studs and choosing a solid block approximately 3/4-in thicker than this measurement, with drilled holes to fit over the studs. If an engine hoist is unavailable, use a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan to spread the load and prevent damage. Raise the engine slowly until the wood block spacer can be placed between the engine mount and the engine mount bracket, checking clearances as it is raised, particularly at the front engine strut. Lower the engine onto the wood block, ensuring it is firmly supported, and if using a hoist, keep the lifting chains secured. Remove the oil pan bolts and the oil pan, using a rubber mallet if necessary to break the seal. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces on the engine block and oil pan with degreaser, ensuring all sealer and gasket material is removed. Apply a 1/8-in (3 mm) diameter bead of RTV or equivalent sealer around the pan's sealing flange before positioning the oil pan against the engine block and installing the mounting bolts, torquing them to specifications. If the engine has been raised, lower it onto the engine mount and install the retaining nuts, torquing them to specifications. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse of the removal procedure. Finally, fill the engine with the correct grade of oil, start the engine, and check the pan for leaks.

To get rid of and introduce various engines, e.g. the 350 Buick Engines, 231 and 252 Buick Engines, 305 and 350 Chevrolet-Built Engines, 265 and 301 Pontiac-Built Engines, a person should do as follows: First remove the battery ground cable, then remove any necessary items like fan shrouds, air cleaners and exhaust pipes, after which lift up the vehicle, drain the oil off it, detach engine mounts, support the engine with appropriate means for instance jacks or chains from an overhead crane if need be and at last but one stage in the process take off oil pan by unscrewing bolts after that clean both flanges and put new gasket or gasket covered in sealant. Finally tighten them down to specification using torque wrenches.

Disconnect the negative battery terminal, then raise the front of the car and support it on jack stands. Drain the engine oil into a suitable container and remove the front exhaust crossover pipe, followed by the flywheel inspection cover and the starter. If equipped with a manual transaxle, remove the nuts securing the engine mounting bracket to the engine mount, and raise the front of the engine about 3/4-in (19 mm) to provide clearance for the oil pan removal. A spacer can be fabricated from a block of wood, measuring the height of the engine mount studs and choosing a solid block approximately 3/4-in thicker than this measurement, with drilled holes to fit over the studs. If an engine hoist is unavailable, use a floor jack with a wood block under the oil pan to spread the load and prevent damage. Raise the engine slowly until the wood block spacer can be placed between the engine mount and the engine mount bracket, checking clearances as it is raised, particularly at the front engine strut. Lower the engine onto the wood block, ensuring it is firmly supported, and if using a hoist, keep the lifting chains secured. Remove the oil pan bolts and the oil pan, using a rubber mallet if necessary to break the seal. Clean the gasket sealing surfaces on the engine block and oil pan with degreaser, ensuring all sealer and gasket material is removed. Apply a 1/8-in (3 mm) diameter bead of RTV or equivalent sealer around the pan's sealing flange before positioning the oil pan against the engine block and installing the mounting bolts, torquing them to specifications. If the engine has been raised, lower it onto the engine mount and install the retaining nuts, torquing them to specifications. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse of the removal procedure. Finally, fill the engine with the correct grade of oil, start the engine, and check the pan for leaks.

To remove the engine, first disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal and raise the vehicle securely on jackstands. Drain the engine oil, then remove the front engine mount nuts, which are secured with large nuts and washers. Next, take off the catalytic converter splash shield and the strut rod. Remove the alternator along with its bracket bolts and the remaining engine support bracket bolt, followed by the air conditioning compressor bracket bolts. Then, take out the starter and the flywheel dust cover. Using a hoist, raise the engine and support bracket/front mount assembly slightly off the cradle, and remove the forward bolts of the engine front support bracket. The mount and support bracket can be removed as an assembly by pushing them upward until the mount studs clear the cradle. After that, remove the oil pan retaining bolts and the oil pan itself. For installation, clean the mating surfaces of the oil pan and cylinder block, apply a 1/8-inch wide bead of RTV sealant to the oil pan flange, and install the oil pan, tightening the retaining bolts to the specified torque. Install the engine front support bracket and tighten the mounting bolts, then lower the engine until the front support bracket rests on the cradle, ensuring the engine mount studs protrude through the holes. Tighten the engine mount nuts, install the flywheel dust cover and the starter, followed by the air conditioning compressor bracket and the alternator. Reattach the catalytic converter splash shield, lower the vehicle, add engine oil, and finally install the negative battery cable. Start the engine and check for leaks.

In order to efficient remove the oil pan you must first; disconnect the cable from the negative terminal on the battery, then find a suitable spot on the vehicle, raise it about sixteen inches and put it on jackstands. Safely drain the engine oil, and if the vehicle is fitted with a manual transmission, then remove the clutch housing; if however the car is fitted with an automatic transmission then remove the flywheel cover. Before that, I turned over the starter and started unbolting the oil pan and identified which bolts are thicker than the others. Take much care while lifting the oil pan and do not try to pry between the block and the pan in order to avoid scratching off the sealing surfaces. For installation, make certain that the mating surfaces of the pan sealing flange, block and the timing cover are clean from oil and all the threaded holes of the rear main bearing cap are clean as well. If reinstalling the original pan, be sure all sealant has been removed from the sealing flange. Spread a 1/8 inch of ATV-type sealant on the oil pan sealing flange, properly align the pan, and fasten the bolts just tight enough to be held by your fingers. Loosen all bolts and then again, tighten them to the required torque value and the order of tightening should be done from the end bolts. Replace the starter, then the clutch cover or the flywheel shield, lower the vehicle, fill the engine with oil and illuminate the negative battery terminal. Last of all engage the starter, turn on and off the engine and observe if there is oil leakage at the oil pan.

If the engine has been pulled out from the car, start by lifting the front part of the car and putting some jack stands. Pull the crankcase ventilation tube out, and drain the oil from the crankcase, and then unbolt the front engine mount from the cradle and the exhaust crossover pipe. Remove the wires, which are connected to the starter, then, take off the flywheel housing inspection cover and the upper generator bracket. Get an engine hoist and place it over the engine lifting eyes making sure that the chain is wrapped rightly in its place. Take off the lower generator bracket and engine support bracket and raise the engine at the upper end on the sides just enough to allow the removal of the oil pan. Disconnect the oil pan drain by unscrewing the bolts which hold it in place, and if necessary to get it off, use a rubber mallet. It is also recommended to remove any deposits that may be present on the sealing surfaces in order to install the oil pan gasket: this component includes four pieces that have to be correctly positioned. Place the rear gasket in the rear main bearing cap then apply sealant on the front gasket for the timing gear cover and on the side gaskets for the oil pan use grease. Cut the ends of the front gasket to get well with the side gasket and gum the split lines. Align the oil pan over the block and fit it to the block, making sure that the gasket is not shifted in the process; fit the rear and side mounting bolts in place and tighten them before doing the same for the front bolts at the timing cover. Tighten all bolts to standard and finally perform the process in reverse to the removal process.

The right front balljoint should be separated from the steering knuckle, and the right side stabilizer bar link should be detached from the control arm. Then, the right side suspension support should be removed.

Reinstall the oil pan baffle, if it was removed. With the gasket in position, carefully hold the pan against the block and install the bolts finger-tight.

After removing the necessary components to access the oil pan, the next steps involve detaching the oil pan from the engine, cleaning both the oil pan and engine block, and preparing for reinstallation.

Support the engine from above with an engine support fixture for 1995 and later models.

Reinstall the oil pan baffle if it was removed, position the gasket, hold the pan against the block, and install the bolts finger tight. Tighten the bolts in three steps to the specified torque, starting at the center of the pan and working outward in a spiral pattern, noting that the bolts have different torque values.

Begin by disconnecting the negative battery cable and removing the air cleaner assembly.

Apply sealer to the new oil pan gasket in several places and install it on the pan, making certain that the bolt holes line up.