Oldsmobile 10448575 Mount Assembly, Engine *White

Engine mounts are virtually trouble-free, unless a mount is cracked or worn, then it should be replaced to avoid causing damage to the drivetrain. During the check, the engine must be lifted somewhat to take the load off the mounts. To do this, lift the vehicle and supporting it on jack stands properly and placing the jack just below the engine oil pan with a large timber between the jack head and oil pan, try to raise the engine in such a way so as to unload some weight on the mounts without use of a jack. If the mounts become cracked, harden or separate, it sometimes can split down the centre; using rubber preservative or WD-40 may reduce the rate of deterioration. Insert a large screwdriver or prybar between the mount plates and the engine or frame and look for any relative movement, which will cause the adapter to crack or break; before condemning the mounts check the tightness of the mount fasteners. To remove the mounts, unbend the cable from the negative terminal of the battery, then again, lift the car on jackstands and unscrew the nuts which connect the mount studs with the engine subframe. Engines must be lifted with an engine hoist from the top of the engine so as not to apply pressure to the oil pan, and the use of a jack is prohibited for this purpose; if a hoist is not present, the cast lugs on each side of the engine block must be used to support the weight of the engine during the change of the mount. This is done by raising the engine slightly until the mount can be unbolted from the block, then withdrawn from the vehicle. Installation is the reverse of this and for the mount bolts use non-hardening thread-locking compound and that the bolts should be tightened to the torque specified.

Raise the car for access beneath and support it firmly with stands, ensuring the vehicle is secured since some jostling is necessary to check the mounts. Push upward and pull downward on the transmission extension housing while observing the transmission mount. If the extension can be pushed upwards but cannot be pulled down, this indicates that the rubber is worn and the mount is bottomed out. Additionally, if the rubber portion of the mount separates from the metal plate, it signifies that the mount should be changed. Finally, check that all attaching screws or nuts are tight on the crossmember and the transmission.

Engine mounts seldom require attention, but broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately to prevent damage or wear to driveline components. To check the mounts, raise the vehicle securely on jackstands and position a jack under the engine oil pan with a large block of wood in between. Carefully raise the engine just enough to relieve the weight from the mounts, ensuring no part of your body is under the engine when it is only supported by a jack. Inspect the mounts for any cracks, hardened rubber, or separation from the bushing, and check for relative movement using a large screwdriver or pry bar. If any movement is detected, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners. For replacement, disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal, raise the vehicle on jackstands, and remove the right front wheel along with the inner fender splash shield. Again, raise the engine slightly to relieve weight from the mounts, taking care not to disconnect more than one mount at a time unless the engine is being removed. Detach the mount from the chassis bracket and remove the nuts holding the mount to the engine bracket. Installation follows the reverse order of removal, using thread-locking compound on the mount bolts and ensuring they are tightened securely before reconnecting the battery.

There are four mounts connecting the drivetrain to the chassis, two at the timing chain end (one front and one rear), one at the transaxle end, and one upper mount linking the engine torque strut to the body near the top of the radiator. Engine mounts typically do not require attention, but any broken or deteriorated mounts should be replaced immediately to prevent damage or wear on the driveline components. To check the mounts, the engine must be raised slightly to relieve weight from them. Begin by raising the vehicle and securely supporting it on jack stands, then position a jack under the engine oil pan with a large block of wood in between. Carefully raise the engine just enough to take the weight off the mounts, ensuring no part of the body is placed under the engine when it is only supported by a jack. Inspect the mount insulators for movement; if any is noted, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners. Applying rubber preservative to the insulators can help slow deterioration. For replacement, disconnect the negative battery cable and raise the vehicle on jack stands if not already done, ensuring that the lockout feature of the Delco Theftlock audio system is turned off. For all mounts except the right rear engine mount, raise the engine slightly, remove the bolts or nuts securing the mount to the engine and chassis brackets, then raise the engine further to remove the old mount and insert the new one, followed by lowering the engine and tightening the nuts to specifications. The right rear engine mount replacement is more complex, requiring the removal of the hood and the use of a three-bar engine support from above, along with raising and supporting the front of the vehicle on jack stands. The engine cooling fan must be removed, the engine torque strut disconnected, the right drive axle removed, and the right ball joint disconnected at the control arm. After removing the nuts from the right engine mount, which connects the transaxle-to-engine brace to the front subframe, raise the engine to replace the mount, ensuring that installation follows the reverse order of removal, using thread-locking compound on the mount bolts and tightening them securely to specifications.

Damaged or worn engine mounts rarely get much consideration; even so, when they are damaged or have worn, it is crucial to replace them swiftly to avoid wear of shaking at driveline parts. To check the mounts, lift the engine a little off the mounts, take the load off them and make sure that the car is jacked up and safely standing on jack stands. If there is no special support fixture available place a jack under the engine oil pan and put a large piece of wood between the jack and the engine, just lifting the engine off the mounts slightly. Servicing any part of the vehicle should not be done when the vehicle is merely raised by a jack as this is dangerous as part of the body is left under the engine. Look closely at the mounts for indications of cracked, hard rubber or the fact that the metal plates have separated and use a large screwdriver or pry bar to check to see if there is any play between the mount plates and the engine or frame; if there is, lower the engine and tighten of the mount fasteners. Rubber preservative can help cure this problem and one can apply it to the product in order slow the rate of deterioration. As to the replacement of the part, you have to first unfasten the negative battery cable and then lose the bolt of the upper torque strut bracket, in addition, turn the lockout feature of the Theftlock audio system, if present. The torque strut-to-body mount bolts and the torque strut must be unbolted and then the new torque strut installed before tightening the bolts before the negative battery cabel is reattached. For the lower mount, unconnect the negative battery terminal, undo the nuts around the engine mount below the frame mounting bracket, lift the engine from the mount, and undo the nuts that hold the mount to the bracket so as to take out the mount out of the vehicle. Engines are levers that can be installed in the reverse sequence of their removal and this is done carefully by tightening all the nuts before reconnecting the negative battery cable.

Put in a large screwdriver or prybar between the transaxle bracket and the mount and gently jack up in the transaxle, do not allow the transaxle bracket to move away from the insulator too much. To remove the mount, the nuts used to fasten the insulator to the crossmember must be unfastened and the nuts used to fasten it to the transaxle. Lift the transaxle slightly up with a jack a remove the insulator marked with the holes used in the support for correct orientation at the time of installation. Installation is achieved in the reverse of the removal process with checks made on the nuts and bolts before tightening.

To replace the front mount, relieve tension by raising the engine slightly. Then, remove the engine mount-to-engine block bolts and the through-bolt before taking out the mount. Install the new mount with through-bolts and nuts, followed by the engine mount-to-engine block bolts, ensuring they are torqued to specifications.

Start by removing the through-bolt and nut. Then, raise the engine slightly using a hoist or jack with a wood block under the oil pan, and remove the mount and bracket assembly from the frame. Install the new mount along with the through-bolt and nut, ensuring all bolts are tightened to the specified torque.

Inspect the mounts for any cracks, hardened rubber, or separation from the metal plates. Note that the rubber may split down the center. Check for any relative movement between the mount plates and the engine or frame using a large screwdriver or pry bar; if movement is detected, lower the engine and tighten the mount fasteners.

Raise the engine slightly with a jack or hoist, install an engine support, remove the fasteners, and detach the mount from the frame bracket. Remove the mount-to-block bracket bolts/nuts and detach the mount.

To slow deterioration, apply rubber preservative to the mounts.

Yes, they are made out of solid rubber