Raise the vehicle and support it securely on jackstands, then remove the transaxle. If it's leaking, now would be a very good time to replace the front pump seal/O-ring (automatic transaxle only). If you're working on a manual transaxle equipped vehicle, remove the pressure plate and clutch disc. Now is a good time to check/replace the clutch components. Use a center punch or paint to make alignment marks on the flywheel/driveplate and crankshaft to ensure correct alignment during installation. Remove the bolts that secure the flywheel/driveplate to the crankshaft. If the crankshaft turns, wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to jam the flywheel. Remove the flywheel/driveplate from the crankshaft. Since the flywheel is fairly heavy, be sure to support it while removing the last bolt. If an automatic transaxle-equipped vehicle has a spacer between the crankshaft and the driveplate, note which way it was installed. Clean the flywheel to remove grease and oil. Inspect the surface for cracks, rivet grooves, burned areas and score marks. Light scoring can be removed with emery cloth. Check for cracked and broken ring gear teeth. Lay the flywheel on a flat surface and use a straightedge to check for warpage. Clean and inspect the mating surfaces of the flywheel/driveplate and the crankshaft. If the crankshaft rear seal is leaking, replace it before reinstalling the flywheel/driveplate. Position the flywheel/driveplate against the crankshaft, installing the spacer if one was present originally. Be sure to align the mating marks made during removal. Note that some engines have an alignment dowel or staggered bolt holes to ensure correct installation. Before installing the bolls, apply thread locking compound to the threads. Wedge a screwdriver in the ring gear teeth to keep the flywheel/driveplate from turning and tighten the bolts to the torque. Work up to the final torque. The remainder of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.
