Cadillac 12592195 Seal Assembly, Crankshaft Rear Oil

To remove and install the lower half of the rear Crankshaft Seal on Buick 231, 252, and 350 engines and Oldsmobile 307 engines, first remove the oil pan and rear main bearing cap. The old oil seal should be taken off from the cap of the bearing by applying a sealer to its groove. Thereafter use a suitable instrument to roll a new seal into the groove with both ends extending above the surface where cap parts. The working surface of the rope seal should be coated with thin film of chassis grease before being driven into the groove using a smooth tool or hammer handle such that it is not more than 1/8 inch (1.5mm) above this groove. Slightly rotate the tool to cut off those ends of seals which are flush with surface of caps using a razor blade. Soak new neoprene side seals for Buick 231, 252 and 350 engines in kerosene for five minutes, then place them in grooves on bearing caps without cutting them to fit. A sealer must be applied to mating surface of bearing cap between it and block around sealing groove. Reverse steps of removal when installing pan and cap back on. At first run engine at low rpm after new seal is installed. For upper half replacement of oil seals on Buick engines, though advised that crankshaft be removed, crankshaft may remain in place during their replacement.Loosen other crankshaft bearings so that crankshaft comes down about 1/8" (0.062 mm).Lube new seal with oil (for 1975-84 vehicles) or chassis grease (for 1985-87 vehicles) lubricate an old one.Remove excess seals if necessary.Pull each side equally.Replace all bearings; tighten all bolts according to specifications before attaching rod bolts.Chevrolet engines' oil pans, pumps and rear main bearing caps are all removed.For instance, tap upper seal slightly, and pry lower seal out through it.Clean all mating surfaces before installing new seals using a lubricator to place the lip of the seals forward.The installation tool should be used to prevent damages upon the seal by guarding the crankshaft while working around it. No oil should be present on mating surfaces so that one can replace oil pan, pump, and run engine in order to break in new seals.In case of 265 and 301 Pontiac engines, this involves removing the oil pan and baffle, rear main bearing cap, and forming a new seal in the cap.After driving the upper seal into groove on each side until it is packed tightly.Afterwards take pieces from new seal, cut them into lengths slightly longer than required to fill gaps at end of block's portion of said seal; then insert them packing these tightly.None must be trimmed. Apply a 1/16 inch bead of silicone sealer from center of gasket across to external gasket groove.Reassemble the cap and tighten bolts according to specifications before refitting oil pan.Finally run engine slowly for first few minutes so as to break in new seal.The upper oil seal can be replaced without removing crankshaft on 263, 350 and 403 Oldsmobile engines.Drain crankcase; remove oil pan and rear main bearing cap.Therefore drive upper seals on both sides till they are tight.Then cut these pieces little longer than necessary for filling grooves and stuff them into these grooves.Place shim stock between the seal and crankshaft before trimming any protruding material from surface of bearing without leaving scratch marks.Put another one in cap.Reinstall this alongside its bolts that will need specified torque values.Last but not least, refit oil pan.

Remove the flywheel/driveplate. Carefully remove the Crankshaft Seal from the engine block using a thin screwdriver or seal removal tool. Be very careful not to damage the crankshaft surface while prying the seal out. Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft. Check the seal contact surface on the crankshaft for scratches and nicks that could damage the new seal lip and cause oil leaks. If the crankshaft is damaged, the only alternative is a new or different crankshaft. Inspect the seal bore for nicks and scratches. Carefully smooth it with a fine file if necessary, but don't nick the crankshaft in the process. It is recommended to use a special tool to install the new Crankshaft Seal. Lubricate the Crankshaft Seal lips. Slide the seal onto the mandril until the dust lip bottoms squarely against the collar of the tool. If the special tool isn't available, carefully work the seal lip over the crankshaft and tap it into place with a hammer and punch. Align the dowel pin on the tool with the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft and attach the tool to the crankshaft by hand-tightening the bolts. Turn the tool handle until the collar bottoms against the case, seating the seal. Loosen the tool handle and remove the bolts. Remove the tool. Check the seal and make sure it's seated squarely in the bore. Install the flywheel/driveplate. Install the transaxle.

At the time of publication, the rear Crankshaft Seal is supplied as an assembly consisting of the oil seal and housing. The manufacturer recommends using special studs EN 46109, seal alignment tool EN 47839, and handle J 42183 to ensure correct alignment of the seal, which are available through SPX Tools. Begin by disconnecting the cable from the negative battery terminal. Next, remove the driveplate and the oil pan. After that, remove the retaining bolts and discard the seal housing from the engine, using a knife if necessary to cut the sealant away from the joint between the rear Crankshaft Seal housing and the engine block, taking care not to scratch the machined faces of the cylinder block, rear Crankshaft Seal housing, or oil pan when scraping old gasket material. Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of the oil pan, rear Crankshaft Seal housing, and engine block of old gasket material and sealer, wiping the gasket surfaces with a rag soaked in brake system cleaner. Install the two dowels into the oil seal housing bolt holes, then apply a 1/8-inch wide bead of RTV sealant around the sealing area of the oil seal housing, passing on the inside of the bolt holes. Install the special alignment tool (EN 47839) on the rear of the crankshaft, attaching it with the two supplied screws. Next, install the new Crankshaft Seal housing over the alignment tool and studs onto the rear of the engine block, removing the guide studs but leaving the alignment tool in place. Install the housing bolts and tighten them to the specified torque, then remove the alignment tool. The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal. Finally, add oil as necessary and run the engine to check for leaks.

Disconnect the transaxle, the pressure plate and clutch disc, which is accompanied by the removal of the flywheel and oil pan. To do this, the oil pan has to be set out of the way and the seal housing needs to have its bolts stripped and the cover peeled of all of its old gasket material. Place the seal housing on wooden pieces of wood on the work bench and with the help of a punch and hammer, knock out the old Crankshaft Seal. Impacted the new Crankshaft Seal into the housing with a wood block and ensure that it has not been placed in a cocked position within the housing bore. Grease the crankshaft seal journal and the lip of the new Crankshaft Seal with moly-base grease; install a new gasket on the engine block. Gently conform the new Crankshaft Seal to the crankshaft and then try to wedge it into place by pushing the housing against the block, and for this you may have to use a smooth bar. Locate and fix the housing bolts tightly to the required torque; replace the flywheel and the clutch parts then reposition the transaxle.

Lift the driveplate / clutch assembly and, if equipped, the flywheel also, if it hasn't been done yet. They include; The screwdriver should be small, in order to remove the old Crankshaft Seal without damaging the crankshaft sealing surface or the seal bore. Scrub the seal bore and the crankshaft face in which the seal is fitted with great care, then check the crankshaft for any roughness that may harm the seal lip and cause oil leaks. If only minor pitting is found, the area should be wiped with crocus cloth; if the pitting is too deep, the crankshaft must be replaced. A very important tool as a means of seating the seal is the special seal installation tool to avoid damaging it during installation. Clean the sealing bore, the sealing lips and the crankshaft sealing face with clean engine oil. Place the seal atop the tool's mandrill in a manner that the dust lip rests against the collar, then turn the dowel pin to fit the crankshaft hole. Fasten the tool to the crankshaft with the supplied bolts; tighten the Crankshaft Seal by rotating the tool's "T" until the seal's collar contacts block; then, unscrew tool. If the special tool is not available, proceed cautiously while using the seal lip to fit around the crankshaft end and then use hammer and a mild faced drift to put the seal lip in the proper position. Last of all, replace the driveplate or flywheel and clutch assembly, and secure the retaining bolts to the required degree of turn.

Always replace both halves of the rear Crankshaft Seal as a unit. While the replacement of this seal is much easier with the engine removed from the car, the job can be done with the engine in place. Remove the oil pan and oil pump as previously described, then take off the rear main bearing cap from the engine. Using a screwdriver, pry the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal from the bearing cap. To remove the upper half of the seal, use a small hammer and a brass pin punch to roll the seal around the crankshaft journal, tapping one end until the other end protrudes enough to pull it out with pliers. Clean all sealant and foreign material from the cylinder bearing cap and case without using an abrasive cleaner. Inspect components for nicks, scratches, or burrs at all sealing surfaces. Coat the seal lips of the new seal with light engine oil, avoiding oil on the seal mating ends. A small plastic installation tool should be included with the purchase of the rear Crankshaft Seal; if not, make one by cutting an old feeler gauge blade. Position the narrow end of this tool between the crankshaft and the seal seat to protect the new seal from damage. Raise the new upper half of the seal into position with the seal lips facing towards the front of the engine, pushing it onto its seat while using the installation tool as protection. Roll the seal around the crankshaft, using the tool as a protector, and when both ends of the seal are flush with the engine block, carefully remove the installation tool without withdrawing the seal. Install the lower half of the Crankshaft Seal to the bearing cap, again using the installation tool for protection. Ensure the seal is firmly seated before withdrawing the installation tools. Smear a bit of sealant on the bearing cap areas adjacent to the seal ends, then install the bearing cap with the seal and torque the attaching bolts to about 10-12 ft. lb. Tap the end of the crankshaft first rearward, then forward to line up the thrust surfaces, and retorque the bearing cap bolts to the proper specification. For Oldsmobile engines, with the oil pan, oil pump, and main bearing cap removed, insert packing tool BT-6433 or an equivalent brass punch against the seal, driving the old seal into its groove until packed tight at each end. Measure how much the seal was driven upwards, then add 16/1 in. and cut this length from the old seal taken from the bearing cap. Place a drop of sealant on each end of these seal pieces and pack them into the upper groove to fill the gap made previously. Trim the remaining material perfectly flush with the block, being careful not to harm the bearing surface. A special GM tool (BT-6466) is available for this purpose. Install a new rope seal into the main bearing cap groove, pushing firmly all around using a hammer handle or special GM tool. Ensure the seal is firmly seated, then trim the ends flush with the bearing cap mating surface. Finally, install the cap and remaining components in reverse order, tightening all parts to specifications.

Remove the transaxle. Third, remove the flywheel or driveplate if your engine has one of these installed. Check for the leakage at the Crankshaft Seal, oil pan and the engine block as sometimes, the leakage at the oil pan gasket may resemble like leakage at the rear Crankshaft Seal. Slowly loosen the Crankshaft Seal from the block with the help of a screwdriver as damaging the crankshaft or the seal bore should be avoided at all costs. Using a shop towel, wipe the exterior of the seal bore to remove all the traces of oil and dirt. Coat the lips of the new seal with engine oil or multi-purpose grease and slide the lips over the end of the crankshaft; the lips should face the engine block; gently push the lip seal onto the crankshaft. An aftermarket tool might be available at most auto part stores which can be used for this purpose. Make sure not to take the seal in any deeper than it was originally installed to. Last, replace the flywheel/driveplate or if you have purchased a new one then fit it and after that place the transaxle.

Remove the flywheel/drive plate. Using a thin screwdriver or seal removal tool, carefully extract the Crankshaft Seal from the engine block, taking care not to damage the crankshaft surface. Clean the bore in the block and the seal contact surface on the crankshaft, checking for scratches and nicks that could harm the new seal lip and lead to oil leaks; if the crankshaft is damaged, a new or different crankshaft is necessary. Inspect the seal bore for nicks and scratches, smoothing it with a fine file if needed, but avoid nicking the crankshaft. A special tool is recommended for installing the new Crankshaft Seal; lubricate the seal lips and slide the seal onto the tool until the dust lip bottoms against the collar. If the special tool is unavailable, carefully work the seal lip over the crankshaft and tap it into place with a hammer and blunt punch. Align the dowel pin on the tool with the dowel pin hole in the crankshaft and attach the tool by hand-tightening the bolts. Turn the tool handle until the collar bottoms against the case, seating the seal, then loosen the tool handle and remove the bolts and the tool. Check that the seal is seated squarely in the bore, then install the flywheel/drive plate and the transaxle.

With the parking brake applied and the shifter in "Park" (automatic) or in gear (manual) to prevent the engine from turning over.

Scratching or damaging the crankshaft sealing surface or the bore in the engine block can lead to oil leaks after the new seal is installed.

Finally, install the driveplate and the transaxle.

Lubricate the balancer hub with clean engine oil before reinstalling the crankshaft balancer.

Check the pulley hub's surface for grooves caused by long-term contact with the seal; if present, a press-on sleeve may be used to renew the sealing surface.

It is important for proper installation depth of the new seal.

To press the hub onto the crankshaft during installation, you should align the slot in the hub with the crankshaft Woodruff key and press it onto the crankshaft until it bottoms against the crankshaft timing gear. The hub retaining bolt can be used to press the hub into position.

Remove the transaxle and then the driveplate.

Install the crankshaft pulley and reinstall the remaining parts in the reverse order of removal.

Carefully pry the oil seal out of the front cover with a large screwdriver, taking care not to distort the cover.

The remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal, after which add oil as necessary, run the engine, and check for leaks.

Apply the new oil seal packing around the opening with the ends positioned at the top.

Install the crankshaft pulley, and the remainder of the installation follows the reverse order of removal.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery.

It is important to be very careful not to scratch or damage the crankshaft sealing surface or the bore in the engine block.

The lower seal section should be installed in the block with the lip facing the front and should be ensured to be seated properly.

Install the new seal in the cover with the lip facing inward, using a seal driver or a large socket and hammer to drive it into place, ensuring it enters squarely and stops at the correct depth.