Oldsmobile 12533558 Cylinder Head Assembly (W/Studs)

To eliminate cylinder heads, total engine cool and drain cooling system. Begin by taking off manifold inlet, manifold outlet, cap valve and bar pushrod. On models with 1998 or previous right cylinder head, remove compressor mounting bracket a / c compressor and belt tensioner. Disconnect knock sensor electrical connector. Remove alternator mount on 1999 and higher models. Snatch the dipstick from position move dipstick tube out of the way. For left cylinder head, remove engine grounding strap rear head harness to rear of cylinder head disconnect knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor connectors. On models up to 1998 take out alternator. Unbolt the power steering pump retaining accessory bracket so as not to separate power steering hoses from pump assembly using an s-shaped wrench without removing them completely. For both cylinders using gasket attach new outline on cardboard showing holes for bolts in their proper locations around cylinders themselves. Heads should be lifted by loosen each bolt quarter turns at a time until they can be removed entirely from block for cleaning purposes inspection mating areas must also be checked damages carefully chase thread's nonhardening sealer coat threads inside bolt holes tighten nuts screwing back screws holding down header securing all possible mistakes left behind need've been fixed before starting work lay replacement dowels top install bolts which were used earlier when tightening process is resumed one step at once only after that go back through remaining steps reverse order including changing oil filter starting it check leakage position new pin holes then put heads down there onto these bolts replace everything else like your gear oil filters during startup.

To start the procedures of removal, get rid of the negative cable on the battery, then, unscrew the engine cover and if possible for that car disable the anti theft feature if available. Dump the coolant and slide the air cleaner assembly out, then remove the throttle, cruise control and TV cables if any. After that, it will be necessary to pull out the dipstick tube and thermostat housing, thus it will be required to pull out the alternator and brackets. If it's in the way, unbolt the compressor on the AC and swing it to the side for space, but don't disconnect any of the AC unless the system is not under pressure. Remove all the wires and vacuum hoses connected to the cylinder head and manifold and label them so that they can easily be reconnected, also remove the fuel lines from the TBI unit. Lose the upper radiator, water pump bypass/helping and heater hoses and separate the spark plug wires and take out the sparks plugs and label the wires too. Lever off the rocker arm cover and pushrods and then the ignition coil. Lift the car up on scissor jack stands and remove the muffler from the manifold joint. To prevent confusion when tightening head bolts and in case the head has to be removed again, the cylinders and bolt pattern can be drawn on a piece of cardboard and the side to be fitted to the engine marked in red as front. Turn evenly the cylinder head mounting bolts a quarter turn at a time till they can be removed by use of bare hands and keep the bolts in the cardboard that comes with them for later use. Pick the head off the engine, and pry only at the lip on top of the head, at the end of the thermostat housing if it is jammed on, then set the head on some wooden planks to avoid denting. In the process of installation, remove all external parts from the old cylinder head, if it is possible, and transfer them on the new one; the mating surfaces of the cylinder head and the block must be clean. Examine the head for deformation and cracks; and all the carbon and remains of the gasket should be cleaned using a gasket scraper; the surfaces should be cleaned using lacquer thinner or acetone. Check the block and head mating surfaces and if it has minor imperfections then the block is filed in while major imperfections have to be machined. Strike the threads in the head bolt holes with a tap, so that you remove the corrosion on the bolts by cleaning them with a die. Place the new gasket properly on the dowel pins of the block then place the head on the block being careful not to move the gasket. Apply a layer of sealing compound to the threads and the underside of the heads of cylinder head bolt numbers 9 and 10; tighten them slightly. Torque each bolt in sequence to 18 ft-lbs; then, refer to prescribed torque sequences by model year and use an angle of torque as directed. Lastly, return to follow the rest of the installation steps in the reverse, then change the oil and filter, start the engine and check for leaks.

To remove the cylinder head, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable and draining the cooling system. The drive belt should be removed, and this should be followed by removing the upper fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly and the water pump pulley. Then release it from all its connections including radiator hoses, coolant temperature sensor electrical connector, heater hose form thermostat housing, upper radiator hose and thermostat housing. Finally remove the air cleaner assembly in addition to upper and lower intake manifolds for models made prior to 1999 while on 1999 and later models it is a one-piece intake manifold. Subsequently you have to eliminate the dipstick tube, alternator bracket and also air conditioning compressor bracket next to them along with power steering pump. At last, take off exhaust manifold; above that are valve covers (that cover rocker arms) as well as pushrods. Later unbolt and remove engine lifting bracket from rear of cylinder head. Write down on a cardboard outline of the cylinders and bolt pattern then mark front of engine for cylinder head removal. Next you have to loosen head mounting bolts by turning them 1/4-turn at a time; keep these bolts in a cardboard holder when they are removed. Gently lift off the head from the engine block making sure that you do not pry at any other point except for where it overhangs toward thermostat end if seized. Place this head on a wooden block. In cases where applicable all external parts must be transferred from old cylinder head unto new one during installation. Ensure clean mating surfaces between cylinder head and block and have machining work done on head to check for distortion or cracks in an automotive machine shop. Take care to clean mating surfaces thoroughly before chasing threads in hole of head bolt then use thread sealer for all threads of cylinder-head bolts. Place new gasket over dowel pins in block, then drop heads onto block without touching gasket surface first. Following the tightening of bolts, do the other installation steps in reverse order. Finally change the oil and filter, add coolant, run the engine and check for leaks.

New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most engines at dealerships and auto parts stores. Some specialized tools are necessary for the disassembly and inspection procedures, and replacement parts may not be readily available, making it more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase replacement heads rather than disassemble, inspect and recondition the originals. On 7.4 liter (454 cubic inch) engines, two head designs are generally available -"open chamber" and "closed chamber." These heads will interchange as far as bolt patterns, accessory mounting, etc. is concerned, but the different combustion chamber designs require different piston dome shapes. If you're purchasing a set of reconditioned cylinder heads, make sure the new heads match the combustion chamber design of the originals. Cylinder head disassembly involves removal of the intake and exhaust valves and related components. If they're still in place, remove the rocker arm nuts, pivot balls and rocker arms from the cylinder head studs. Label the parts or store them separately so they can be reinstalled in their original locations. Before the valves are removed, arrange to label and store them, along with their related components, so they can be kept separate and reinstalled in the same valve guides they are removed from. Compress the springs on the first valve with a spring compressor and remove the keepers. Carefully release the valve spring compressor and remove the retainer or (if used) rotator, the shield, the springs and the spring seat or shims (if used). Remove the oil seal(s) from the valve stem and the umbrella-type seal from the guide (if used), then pull the valve out of the head. If the valve binds in the guide (won't pull through), push it back into the head and deburr the area around the keeper groove with a fine file or whetstone. Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Remember to keep all the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same locations. Once the valves and related components have been removed and stored in an organized manner, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head cleaning and inspection process.

New and rebuilt cylinder heads are commonly available for most engines at dealerships and auto parts stores. Some specialized tools are necessary for the disassembly and inspection procedures, and replacement parts may not be readily available, making it more practical and economical for the home mechanic to purchase replacement heads rather than disassemble, inspect and recondition the originals. On 7.4 liter (454 cubic inch) engines, two head designs are generally available -"open chamber" and "closed chamber." These heads will interchange as far as bolt patterns, accessory mounting, etc. is concerned, but the different combustion chamber designs require different piston dome shapes. If you're purchasing a set of reconditioned cylinder heads, make sure the new heads match the combustion chamber design of the originals. Cylinder head disassembly involves removal of the intake and exhaust valves and related components. If they're still in place, remove the rocker arm nuts, pivot balls and rocker arms from the cylinder head studs. Label the parts or store them separately so they can be reinstalled in their original locations. Before the valves are removed, arrange to label and store them, along with their related components, so they can be kept separate and reinstalled in the same valve guides they are removed from. Compress the springs on the first valve with a spring compressor and remove the keepers. Carefully release the valve spring compressor and remove the retainer or (if used) rotator, the shield, the springs and the spring seat or shims (if used). Remove the oil seal(s) from the valve stem and the umbrella-type seal from the guide (if used), then pull the valve out of the head. If the valve binds in the guide (won't pull through), push it back into the head and deburr the area around the keeper groove with a fine file or whetstone. Repeat the procedure for the remaining valves. Remember to keep all the parts for each valve together so they can be reinstalled in the same locations. Once the valves and related components have been removed and stored in an organized manner, the head should be thoroughly cleaned and inspected. If a complete engine overhaul is being done, finish the engine disassembly procedures before beginning the cylinder head cleaning and inspection process.

To eliminate cylinder heads, total engine cool and drain cooling system. Begin by taking off manifold inlet, manifold outlet, cap valve and bar pushrod. On models with 1998 or previous right cylinder head, remove compressor mounting bracket a / c compressor and belt tensioner. Disconnect knock sensor electrical connector. Remove alternator mount on 1999 and higher models. Snatch the dipstick from position move dipstick tube out of the way. For left cylinder head, remove engine grounding strap rear head harness to rear of cylinder head disconnect knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor connectors. On models up to 1998 take out alternator. Unbolt the power steering pump retaining accessory bracket so as not to separate power steering hoses from pump assembly using an s-shaped wrench without removing them completely. For both cylinders using gasket attach new outline on cardboard showing holes for bolts in their proper locations around cylinders themselves. Heads should be lifted by loosen each bolt quarter turns at a time until they can be removed entirely from block for cleaning purposes inspection mating areas must also be checked damages carefully chase thread's nonhardening sealer coat threads inside bolt holes tighten nuts screwing back screws holding down header securing all possible mistakes left behind need've been fixed before starting work lay replacement dowels top install bolts which were used earlier when tightening process is resumed one step at once only after that go back through remaining steps reverse order including changing oil filter starting it check leakage position new pin holes then put heads down there onto these bolts replace everything else like your gear oil filters during startup.

To remove the cylinder head, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable and draining the cooling system. The drive belt should be removed, and this should be followed by removing the upper fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly and the water pump pulley. Then release it from all its connections including radiator hoses, coolant temperature sensor electrical connector, heater hose form thermostat housing, upper radiator hose and thermostat housing. Finally remove the air cleaner assembly in addition to upper and lower intake manifolds for models made prior to 1999 while on 1999 and later models it is a one-piece intake manifold. Subsequently you have to eliminate the dipstick tube, alternator bracket and also air conditioning compressor bracket next to them along with power steering pump. At last, take off exhaust manifold; above that are valve covers (that cover rocker arms) as well as pushrods. Later unbolt and remove engine lifting bracket from rear of cylinder head. Write down on a cardboard outline of the cylinders and bolt pattern then mark front of engine for cylinder head removal. Next you have to loosen head mounting bolts by turning them 1/4-turn at a time; keep these bolts in a cardboard holder when they are removed. Gently lift off the head from the engine block making sure that you do not pry at any other point except for where it overhangs toward thermostat end if seized. Place this head on a wooden block. In cases where applicable all external parts must be transferred from old cylinder head unto new one during installation. Ensure clean mating surfaces between cylinder head and block and have machining work done on head to check for distortion or cracks in an automotive machine shop. Take care to clean mating surfaces thoroughly before chasing threads in hole of head bolt then use thread sealer for all threads of cylinder-head bolts. Place new gasket over dowel pins in block, then drop heads onto block without touching gasket surface first. Following the tightening of bolts, do the other installation steps in reverse order. Finally change the oil and filter, add coolant, run the engine and check for leaks.

To eliminate cylinder heads, total engine cool and drain cooling system. Begin by taking off manifold inlet, manifold outlet, cap valve and bar pushrod. On models with 1998 or previous right cylinder head, remove compressor mounting bracket a / c compressor and belt tensioner. Disconnect knock sensor electrical connector. Remove alternator mount on 1999 and higher models. Snatch the dipstick from position move dipstick tube out of the way. For left cylinder head, remove engine grounding strap rear head harness to rear of cylinder head disconnect knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor connectors. On models up to 1998 take out alternator. Unbolt the power steering pump retaining accessory bracket so as not to separate power steering hoses from pump assembly using an s-shaped wrench without removing them completely. For both cylinders using gasket attach new outline on cardboard showing holes for bolts in their proper locations around cylinders themselves. Heads should be lifted by loosen each bolt quarter turns at a time until they can be removed entirely from block for cleaning purposes inspection mating areas must also be checked damages carefully chase thread's nonhardening sealer coat threads inside bolt holes tighten nuts screwing back screws holding down header securing all possible mistakes left behind need've been fixed before starting work lay replacement dowels top install bolts which were used earlier when tightening process is resumed one step at once only after that go back through remaining steps reverse order including changing oil filter starting it check leakage position new pin holes then put heads down there onto these bolts replace everything else like your gear oil filters during startup.

To remove the cylinder head, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable and draining the cooling system. The drive belt should be removed, and this should be followed by removing the upper fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly and the water pump pulley. Then release it from all its connections including radiator hoses, coolant temperature sensor electrical connector, heater hose form thermostat housing, upper radiator hose and thermostat housing. Finally remove the air cleaner assembly in addition to upper and lower intake manifolds for models made prior to 1999 while on 1999 and later models it is a one-piece intake manifold. Subsequently you have to eliminate the dipstick tube, alternator bracket and also air conditioning compressor bracket next to them along with power steering pump. At last, take off exhaust manifold; above that are valve covers (that cover rocker arms) as well as pushrods. Later unbolt and remove engine lifting bracket from rear of cylinder head. Write down on a cardboard outline of the cylinders and bolt pattern then mark front of engine for cylinder head removal. Next you have to loosen head mounting bolts by turning them 1/4-turn at a time; keep these bolts in a cardboard holder when they are removed. Gently lift off the head from the engine block making sure that you do not pry at any other point except for where it overhangs toward thermostat end if seized. Place this head on a wooden block. In cases where applicable all external parts must be transferred from old cylinder head unto new one during installation. Ensure clean mating surfaces between cylinder head and block and have machining work done on head to check for distortion or cracks in an automotive machine shop. Take care to clean mating surfaces thoroughly before chasing threads in hole of head bolt then use thread sealer for all threads of cylinder-head bolts. Place new gasket over dowel pins in block, then drop heads onto block without touching gasket surface first. Following the tightening of bolts, do the other installation steps in reverse order. Finally change the oil and filter, add coolant, run the engine and check for leaks.

To remove the cylinder head, start by disconnecting the negative battery cable and draining the cooling system. The drive belt should be removed, and this should be followed by removing the upper fan shroud, fan/clutch assembly and the water pump pulley. Then release it from all its connections including radiator hoses, coolant temperature sensor electrical connector, heater hose form thermostat housing, upper radiator hose and thermostat housing. Finally remove the air cleaner assembly in addition to upper and lower intake manifolds for models made prior to 1999 while on 1999 and later models it is a one-piece intake manifold. Subsequently you have to eliminate the dipstick tube, alternator bracket and also air conditioning compressor bracket next to them along with power steering pump. At last, take off exhaust manifold; above that are valve covers (that cover rocker arms) as well as pushrods. Later unbolt and remove engine lifting bracket from rear of cylinder head. Write down on a cardboard outline of the cylinders and bolt pattern then mark front of engine for cylinder head removal. Next you have to loosen head mounting bolts by turning them 1/4-turn at a time; keep these bolts in a cardboard holder when they are removed. Gently lift off the head from the engine block making sure that you do not pry at any other point except for where it overhangs toward thermostat end if seized. Place this head on a wooden block. In cases where applicable all external parts must be transferred from old cylinder head unto new one during installation. Ensure clean mating surfaces between cylinder head and block and have machining work done on head to check for distortion or cracks in an automotive machine shop. Take care to clean mating surfaces thoroughly before chasing threads in hole of head bolt then use thread sealer for all threads of cylinder-head bolts. Place new gasket over dowel pins in block, then drop heads onto block without touching gasket surface first. Following the tightening of bolts, do the other installation steps in reverse order. Finally change the oil and filter, add coolant, run the engine and check for leaks.

To eliminate cylinder heads, total engine cool and drain cooling system. Begin by taking off manifold inlet, manifold outlet, cap valve and bar pushrod. On models with 1998 or previous right cylinder head, remove compressor mounting bracket a / c compressor and belt tensioner. Disconnect knock sensor electrical connector. Remove alternator mount on 1999 and higher models. Snatch the dipstick from position move dipstick tube out of the way. For left cylinder head, remove engine grounding strap rear head harness to rear of cylinder head disconnect knock sensor and coolant temperature sensor connectors. On models up to 1998 take out alternator. Unbolt the power steering pump retaining accessory bracket so as not to separate power steering hoses from pump assembly using an s-shaped wrench without removing them completely. For both cylinders using gasket attach new outline on cardboard showing holes for bolts in their proper locations around cylinders themselves. Heads should be lifted by loosen each bolt quarter turns at a time until they can be removed entirely from block for cleaning purposes inspection mating areas must also be checked damages carefully chase thread's nonhardening sealer coat threads inside bolt holes tighten nuts screwing back screws holding down header securing all possible mistakes left behind need've been fixed before starting work lay replacement dowels top install bolts which were used earlier when tightening process is resumed one step at once only after that go back through remaining steps reverse order including changing oil filter starting it check leakage position new pin holes then put heads down there onto these bolts replace everything else like your gear oil filters during startup.

Disassembly involves removing the intake and exhaust valves along with related components.

Apply moly-based grease or clean engine oil to the valve stem.

Next, remove the engine cover, raise the vehicle securely on jackstands, and take out the spark plugs and exhaust manifold.

If the valve components are in poor condition, reassemble the valves in the cylinder head and follow valve servicing recommendations.

Apply engine assembly lube to the rocker arm faces and pivot balls, then install the rocker arms and pivots on the cylinder head studs, threading the nuts on three or four turns only.

After installing all valves in both heads, check the valve stem O-ring seals for leaks using a vacuum pump and a special adapter.

Inspect each valve face for cracks, pits, and burned spots, and check the valve stem and neck for cracks and excessive wear.

Before removing the valves, they should be labeled and stored to ensure they can be reinstalled in the same valve guides.

Thoroughly clean the cylinder heads and related valve train components, removing old gasket material and sealing compound from the head gasket, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold sealing surfaces.

Carefully position the heads on the block without disturbing the gaskets.

Using a new cylinder head gasket, outline the cylinders and bolt pattern on cardboard, ensuring to indicate the front of the engine.

Ensure the mating surfaces of the cylinder heads and block are perfectly clean before installation, using gasket removal solvents and a gasket scraper to eliminate all traces of carbon and old gasket material, followed by wiping with a cloth saturated with lacquer thinner or acetone.

Measure the installed valve spring height using a ruler or dial caliper, ensuring it matches the specified height.

Thoroughly clean the cylinder heads and related valve train components, removing old gasket material and sealing compound from the head gasket, intake manifold, and exhaust manifold sealing surfaces.

Loosen the head bolts in 1/4-turn increments until they can be removed by hand, working in a reverse pattern of the tightening sequence. Store the bolts in the cardboard holder to retain their original positions.

If the inspection indicates poor condition and excessive wear, reassemble the valves in the cylinder head and follow valve servicing recommendations.

Start the reassembly procedure with the first valve, as the valves and related components will already be in place.

Heavy deposits should be scraped off the valves, and a motorized wire brush should be used for the valve heads and stems, ensuring not to mix them up.

Ensure the head is clean before beginning reassembly.

Disassembly involves removing the intake and exhaust valves along with their components. If they are still in place, nuts or bolts and pivot balls should be removed to separate the rocker arms from the cylinder head.

The first step is to thoroughly clean the cylinder head and related valvetrain components, followed by a detailed inspection to determine how much valve service work is necessary.

Disassembly involves removing the intake and exhaust valves along with their components. If they are still in place, nuts or bolts and pivot balls should be removed to separate the rocker arms from the cylinder head.

Position the keepers in the upper groove, then slowly release the compressor to ensure they seat properly, applying a small dab of grease to hold them in place if necessary.

If a valve binds in the guide, it may be necessary to deburr the area around the keeper groove.