Disconnect the cable from the negative battery terminal. Remove the transmission and then take out the flywheel/driveplate along with the oil pan. Remove the retaining bolts and take off the seal housing from the engine, being careful not to scratch the machined faces of the cylinder block, rear Crankshaft Seal housing, or oil pan while scraping old gasket material. Thoroughly clean the mounting surfaces of the oil pan, rear Crankshaft Seal housing, and engine block of old gasket material and sealer, using a rag soaked in lacquer thinner, acetone, or brake cleaner. If the seal is supplied separately from the seal housing, note the installed position of the old seal before tapping it out with a small punch or seal removal tool. Lubricate the outside diameter of the new seal and install it over the seal housing, ensuring the lip points toward the engine. Preferably, use a seal installation tool to press the new seal back into place; if unavailable, use a large socket, section of pipe, or a blunt tool to carefully drive the new seal squarely into the seal bore to the same position as the original seal. Install two threaded dowel pins to the cylinder block for correct rear Crankshaft Seal housing alignment. Apply a 1/8-inch (3mm) wide bead of RTV sealant around the mating face of the rear Crankshaft Seal housing, avoiding the bolt holes. Slide the seal over the crankshaft and dowel pins, then tighten the upper bolts finger-tight. Most new rear Crankshaft Seals and housing assemblies come with a seal protector on the inside running face of the seal, which should remain in place until the housing is positioned. Remove the dowel pins and install the remaining rear Crankshaft Seal housing bolts, tightening them to the specified torque before removing the seal protector. Install the oil pan and flywheel/driveplate, then complete the installation in reverse order of removal. Finally, add oil, run the engine, and check for oil leaks.