GM 89017311 Engine Coolant Pump Kit

Inability to operate the water pump leads to severe loss in the engine due to heat, and there are three ways to test the functioning of this pump while mounted on the engine; if it is discovered to be faulty, then, it has to be replaced with a new one or a rebuilt one. If the water pump is Okay the pressure, to the upper hose, should rise when the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the hose is squeezed. Water pumps have weep or vent holes which, if the seal of the pump fails, coolant leaks from these holes and to identify the leak on the underside of the water pump, requires a flashlight and mirror. Moreover, the failure of the water pump shaft bearings may cause a howling noise from the drivebelt zone when the engine is running, and even shaft wear can be sensed if one rocks the water pump pulley up and down; although error may be made with drivebelt slippage which whistles Slide .

A failure in the water pump can cause serious engine damage due to overheating as the pump will not be able to circulate cooled water through the engine. There are three ways in which to check the operation of the water pump while it is still installed on the engine. If the pump is suspect, it should be replaced with a new or factory-rebuilt unit. With the engine warmed up to normal operating temperature, squeeze the upper radiator hose. If the water pump is working properly, a pressure surge should be felt as the hose is released. Water pumps are equipped with 'weep' or vent holes, out of which water leaks when the internal bladder has failed. If a failure occurs to the bladder of the pump, small amounts of water will leak from these 'weep' holes. In most cases, it will be necessary to use a flashlight from under the car to see evidence of leakage from this point in the pump body. If the water pump shaft bearings fail there may be a squealing sound at the front of the engine while it is running. Shaft wear can be felt if the water pump pulley is forced up and down. Do not mistake drive belt slippage, which also causes a squealing sound, for water pump failure.

Disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery. Caution: On models equipped with the Theftlock audio system, be sure the lockout feature is turned off before performing any procedure which requires disconnecting the battery. Drain the cooling system. If the coolant is relatively new or in good condition, save it and reuse it. Remove the air cleaner if necessary. Remove the windshield washer reservoir and the coolant recovery reservoir, as necessary. Remove the serpentine belt and tensioner. Remove the alternator and its brackets and the air conditioner compressor, as necessary. Remove the exhaust manifold heat shields and the exhaust manifold. Remove the radiator outlet pipe-to-radiator pump cover bolts, leaving the lower radiator hose attached. Pull down on the radiator outlet pipe to disengage it from the water pump and detach the pipe from the oil pan and transaxle. Remove the water pump cover-to-cylinder block bolts. On 3.1L engines, remove the small belt guard just above the water pump. Remove the bolts/nuts and detach the water pump from the engine. Clean the fastener threads and any threaded holes in the engine to remove corrosion and sealant. Compare the new pump to the old one to make sure they're identical. Remove all traces of old gasket material from the engine with a gasket scraper. Clean the engine and water pump mating surfaces with lacquer thinner or acetone. Carefully attach the pump and gasket to the engine and start the bolts/nuts finger tight. Tighten the fasteners in 1/4-turn increments to the torque figure listed in the Specifications. Don't overtighten them or the pump may be distorted.

Clean the fastener threads and threaded holes, compare the new pump to the old one, and remove old gasket material.

Don't mistake drivebelt slippage, which causes a squealing sound, for water pump bearing failure.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

It is held in place by a cam lock ring mechanism.