Captiva Sport | 2012-2015 | SPORT LS FWD, SPORT LT FWD | 4 Cyl 2.4L
Cobalt | 2006-2008 | 2 DOOR, 4 DOOR, LEVEL 4 PERFORMANCE/SC (SS) 2 DOOR, LEVEL ONE (LS) 2 DOOR, LEVEL ONE (LS) 4 DOOR, LEVEL THREE (SS) 2 DOOR, LEVEL THREE (SS) 4 DOOR, LEVEL TWO (LT) 2 DOOR, LEVEL TWO (LT) 4 DOOR | 4 Cyl 2.4L
Equinox | 2010-2017 | LS SUV, LT SUV, LTZ SUV | 4 Cyl 2.4L
HHR | 2006-2011 | 5 DOOR HIGH ROOF HATCHBACK, 5 DOOR HIGH ROOF HATCHBACK SS, 5 DOOR HIGH ROOF PANEL, 5 DOOR HIGH ROOF PANEL SS, 5 DOOR UPLEVEL HIGH ROOF HATCHBACK, 5 DOOR UPLEVEL HIGH ROOF PANEL | 4 Cyl 2.4L
Impala | 2014 | LS 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK, LT 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK | 4 Cyl 2.4L
Malibu | 2008-2014 | 4 DOOR HYBRID, LS 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK, LT 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK, LTZ 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK | 4 Cyl 2.4L
Orlando | 2012-2014 | LS 4 DOOR HIGH ROOF WAGON, LT 4 DOOR HIGH ROOF WAGON, LTZ 4 DOOR HIGH ROOF WAGON | 4 Cyl 2.4L
Cruze | 2011-2016 | LS 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK, LT / LTZ 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK, LT 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK | 4 Cyl 1.8L
Sonic | 2012-2018 | 4 DOOR HATCHBACK, 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK, LS 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK/SEDAN, LS 5 DOOR HATCHBACK, LT 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK/SEDAN, LT 5 DOOR HATCHBACK, LTZ 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK/SEDAN, LTZ 5 DOOR HATCHBACK | 4 Cyl 1.8L
Trax | 2015-2020 | LS 4 DOOR SPORT UTILITY, LT 4 DOOR SPORT UTILITY, LTZ 4 DOOR SPORT UTILITY | 4 Cyl 1.8L
Aveo | 2009-2011 | 4 DOOR HATCHBACK, 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK/SEDAN, LS 4 DOOR HATCHBACK, LS 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK/SEDAN, LT 4 DOOR HATCHBACK, LT 4 DOOR NOTCHBACK/SEDAN | 4 Cyl 1.6L
Express | 2003-2005 | 1 TON CARGO EXPRESS, 1 TON COMMERCIAL/RV CUTAWAY, 1 TON PASSENGER, 3/4 TON CARGO EXPRESS, 3/4 TON PASSENGER EXPRESS | 8 Cyl 6.0L
Silverado | 2002-2005 | 1500 CREW CAB LONG BOX, 1500 CREW CAB STANDARD BOX, 1500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, 1500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, 1500 REGULAR CAB LONG BOX, 1500 REGULAR CAB STANDARD BOX, 2500 CREW CAB LONG BOX, 2500 CREW CAB STANDARD BOX, 2500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, 2500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, 2500 REGULAR CAB, 3500 CHASSIS EXTENDED CAB 161.5, 3500 CHASSIS REGULAR CAB 137.0, 3500 CHASSIS REGULAR CAB 161.5, 3500 CREW CAB, 3500 EXTENDED CAB, 3500 REGULAR CAB | 8 Cyl 6.0L
Suburban | 2002-2005 | 1/2 TON, 1500 CREW CAB, 1500 CREW CAB LONG BOX, 1500 CREW CAB STANDARD BOX, 1500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, 1500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, 1500 REGULAR CAB LONG BOX, 1500 REGULAR CAB STANDARD BOX, 2500 CREW CAB LONG BOX, 2500 CREW CAB STANDARD BOX, 2500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, 2500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, 2500 REGULAR CAB, 3/4 TON, 3500 CHASSIS EXTENDED CAB 161.5, 3500 CHASSIS EXTENDED CAB 185.5, 3500 CHASSIS REGULAR CAB 137.0, 3500 CHASSIS REGULAR CAB 161.5, 3500 CREW CAB, 3500 EXTENDED CAB, 3500 REGULAR CAB, 4 DOOR 1/2 TON, CLASSIC 1500 CREW CAB LONG BOX, CLASSIC 1500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, CLASSIC 1500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, CLASSIC 1500 REGULAR CAB LONG BOX, CLASSIC 1500 REGULAR CAB STANDARD BOX, CLASSIC 2500 CREW CAB LONG BOX, CLASSIC 2500 CREW CAB STANDARD BOX, CLASSIC 2500 EXTENDED CAB LONG BOX, CLASSIC 2500 EXTENDED CAB STANDARD BOX, CLASSIC 2500 REGULAR CAB, CLASSIC 3500 CHASSIS EXTENDED CAB 161.5, CLASSIC 3500 CREW CAB, CLASSIC 3500 EXTENDED CAB, CLASSIC 3500 REGULAR CAB, EXT 1/2 TON, EXT 3/4 TON, XL 1/2 TON, XL 3/4 TON, YUKON/DENALI | 8 Cyl 6.0L
Tahoe | 2002-2005 | 4 DOOR 1/2 TON
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Chevrolet Piston
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Chevrolet Piston Parts Questions & Experts Answers
Q: What steps should be followed before installing the piston and connecting rod assemblies on Chevrolet Astro?
A: Before the piston and its respective connecting rods are fixed on the engine, it is required to check if the cylinder walls are free from deposits, the top edges of each cylinder are peened, and the crankshaft is inserted into the engine block. Bolt off the cap of the No 1 connecting rod, and replace the bearing inserts with the new ones, and clean the bearing surface of the rod lightly with a clean cloth. Clean the back side of the new upper bearing half and bring it into the connecting rod in such way that the tab should fit into the recess without hammering the tab into position and damaging the bearing face. Do this same thing with the other bearing insert that sits in the rod cap also ensure that all mating surfaces are clean and free from oil. Make sure that positions of the gap of the piston rings are at intervals of every 120 degrees, apply a few drops of clean engine oil at the land of the piston and the ring, fit the piston ring compressor in such way that ¼ inch of the piston skirt comes out. Turn the crankshaft such that the number one connecting rod journal is at the bottom dead centre, then apply a liberal coat of oil on the cylinder walls. Place the piston/connecting rod assembly into the cylinder bore, so that to the notch would look forward and the ring compressor should be in contacting the block. Hit the piston lightly with wooden hammer handle and ease the connecting rod over the crankshaft journal carefully if one feels any rigidity. When the connecting rod is in position, it is recommended that one should check the bearing oil clearance before finally tightening the cap of the rod. Place a thin layer of Plastigage on the journal of the connecting rod, apply clean oil on the rod cap bearing face and finally screw and align the cap against the marks on the journals. Make up the nuts to the required torque in that sequence while the crankshaft is immobilated. The upper part of the check rod was also protected with Plastigage and lifting the rod cap cautiously allowed getting a clearance on this scale as no dirt or oil would appear to have influenced the width on the Plastigage. Scrape of any Plastigage material from the rod journal surface and bearing face, spread a fresh layer of moly-base grease or engine assembly lube on the rod journal and fit the rod again on the journal. Anchoring the rod cap nuts to the appropriate amplitude of torque, do the same for the other staying assemblies while at the same time ensuring that all the components are free from dirt. It is only possible to do this after next all the assemblies are installed, rotate the crankshaft manually, and at the end of this process, measure the connecting rod end play and adjust, if it has deviations from the norm.
Q: What are the considerations for replacing pistons in V8 engine on Chevrolet Caprice?
A: It is often long mileages where original pistons must be changed because of bores enlarged for normal wear and for connecting rods, although old pistons may be utilized occasionally if the cylinder walls require little more than final finishing and are still in satisfactory state. Connecting rods and pistons must be cleaned with cleaning solvent and blow with compressed air not to use wire brushes or any abrasive tool on any part of the piston. The ring grooves of the piston must be cleaned using a groove cleaner tool; where oil ring holes or slots are found and or present they must be clean. Care should be taken when inspecting the rods to ensure that they do not display signs of twist, bending, nicking or crack; in such cases they should be replaced. This covering should be checked for cracked ring lands, skirts or pin bosses, as well as worn or damaged areas and damaged pistons have to be replaced. Grooves on rings should be inspected for nicks which if present could slow the ring down. When the piston is still attached to the connecting rod, the piston should be rocked side to side to determine the degree of effort as compared between all pinston/rod assemblies; if the rods are loose on the piston pins with or with no drag, the pins are worn and should be replaced. If in any case the cylinder block requires some machine work to be done, such as finish honing, it is always best to bring the pistons to check the piston to bore clearance and this is better done in the machine shop.
Q: How to remove piston/connecting rod assemblies on Chevrolet Tracker?
A: The piston/connecting rod assemblies should be removed after the cylinder head, the oil pan and the oil pickup have been taken out. Use your fingernail to determine if there is a ridge or not at the upper limit of ring travel (about 1/4-inch down from the top of each cylinder). If a ridge has formed due to carbon deposits or cylinder wear it must be removed completely with a special ridge reamer tool. Follow all directions given by the manufacturer of the tool. It is important to remove these ridges before attempting to remove piston/connecting rod assemblies as failure to do so may cause piston breakage. Turn engine upside down so that crankshaft faces upwards once all ridges are removed from cylinders. Check end play with feeler gauges before removing connecting rods. Slide them between first connecting rod and crankshaft throw until play is removed from feeler gauge(s). End play equals thickness of feeler gauge(s). When end play exceeds its service limit, new rods will have to be used. The installation of new rods (or new crankshaft) may cause this value to fall below minimum specified. Repeat steps for other connecting rods. Look for identification marks on the connecting rods and caps. If they are not marked clearly then use a small center punch to make an appropriate number of indentations on each rod and cap (1, 2, 3 or 4 depending on which cylinder it belongs to). Loosen each nut on the connecting rod cap nut by half-turns until they can be unscrewed by hand safely. Remove bearing insert and number one connecting rod cap. Do not let bearing insert slip out of cap. To prevent nicking or gouging the crankshaft journal and cylinder wall while piston is being removed, place a short length of plastic or rubber hose over each connecting rod cap bolt. Through the top of engine push out both bearing insert and connecting rod/piston assembly. Use a wooden hammer handle to push on the upper bearing surface in the connecting rod. If ridge is still present in a cylinder, repeat steps for other cylinders. After removal, reassemble connecting rod caps and bearing inserts in their respective connecting rods and install cap nuts finger tight. The old bearing inserts should be left in place until reassembly to prevent accidental nicking or gouging of the connecting rod bearing surfaces. Don't separate the pistons from their connecting rods.